The Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold Lumen showcasing its nighttime appearance.
When we work on the annual Legacy issue, tradition is always at the forefront of our minds. This is as unsurprising as discovering sand on a beach. The Legacy issue focuses on the exploration of watchmaking histories and standards, encompassing practices and personalities. Tradition undeniably plays a crucial role. Occasionally, this assumption can take on unexpected significance or, as some philosopher observed, it can become meta. We do not imply something transcendent here; rather, certain narratives become traditions surrounding the tradition, in an issue centered on tradition.
If we so desired, we could have transformed this interview with A. Lange & Söhne CEO Wilhelm Schmid into a narrative about the interview itself, referencing all previous interviews we have conducted with him and other brand leaders (Tony de Haas and Tino Bobe). As mentioned earlier, these three are the ones typically engaging with the press for A. Lange & Söhne, and we have spoken to at least one of them every year since 2019. You might wonder what is so ‘meta’ about this. It refers to a similar phrasing we utilized in an earlier article where we acknowledged this recurring pattern. The meta concept can be useful—consider meta-analyses that compile individual studies to yield new insights—and we aim to integrate this perspective into our A. Lange & Söhne stories.
An illustrative example is our interview with Schmid two years ago in Singapore, where he advised us not to hold our breath if we expected to purchase a Lange 1 (at that time). During our meeting this year at Watches and Wonders Geneva, Schmid noted that the situation had improved, partly as a result of the brand’s efforts to transition its business to its own retail network. He cautioned, however, that the situation is still far from ideal.
“Our strategy is to enhance our capacity because we will require increased capacity in different segments of watches,”
This discussion was possible this year because of last year’s conversation, likely influenced by the same individuals involved; you may have noticed that I conduct most of the interviews. Returning to the subject of availability, Schmid also reiterated that the Glashütte brand continues to produce around 5,000 watches. This figure has appeared in our publications and many sources for years. It is corroborated by de Haas’ statement that producing more of one model means fewer can be made of another. When asked about this, Schmid nodded knowingly. “When we launch something new, we must reduce the production of something existing. It is neither feasible nor advisable to simply layer additional references on top of the existing ones without some pruning because ultimately, who is going to manufacture all these watches?” Schmid commented with a subtle shrug.
From all our interactions with him, we know Schmid to be both serious and compassionate. He would never take any action that could jeopardize A. Lange & Söhne. Thankfully, you don’t have to take our word on this. Uniquely among his peers at Richemont (A. Lange & Söhne is a Richemont brand), Schmid, de Haas, and Bobe have extensive tenure. The latter two, along with communications head Arnd Einhorn, have been with A. Lange & Söhne nearly since its inception (collectively). These individuals would not have remained with Schmid if he were not the honest person he appears to be. Schmid would not have lasted this long (having taken the CEO position in 2011) if he had not been a constructive influence on A. Lange & Söhne.
Of course, we recognize that perceptions of A. Lange & Söhne and Schmid have shifted dramatically over the last five years as the brand’s watches have become somewhat elusive and prices have responded accordingly. The individual at the helm has answers to those inquiries, which ultimately underscore that A. Lange & Söhne isn’t interested in increasing production to pursue growth.
“Our strategy is to enhance our capacity because we will require increased capacity across various segments of watches,” Schmid remarked. “This involves increasing the capacity of watchmaking hours that we can apply to each timepiece. Growth will arise from greater complexity within our range, not from higher production numbers.”
And with that, we encourage you to continue our conversation with Schmid and stay engaged for an important update regarding the Odysseus Chronograph.
The Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold Lumen and the Datograph Up/Down (on the right) belong to the Saxonia collection.
It marks the 25th anniversary of the Datograph, and you are debuting two very special watches to commemorate this occasion. Given that these are, let’s say, variations on a theme, how have they been received so far (at WWG)?
Allow me to start with the Datograph Up/Down – it features a white gold case and a blue dial; this is a combination we haven’t utilized before. Remember, our clients are generally watch collectors, so they constantly seek what they do not possess (which would be the earlier limited edition with a blue dial). They cannot obtain that because we did not produce it again. For this limited edition Datograph Up/Down, we plan to manufacture a slightly larger quantity – for us, 125 is a significant number. For most brands, it’s virtually nothing.
Next is the Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold Lumen, which includes two aspects we appreciate: unique materials and a new calibre. The calibre shares many familiar features with collectors. Please explain what differentiates it here.
To start, yes, the calibre is based on the existing one (which debuted in 2016), but we undertook significant modifications for this revamped version. For instance, we rearranged the entire moon phase indication (which might not be immediately apparent) and eliminated the power reserve display.
(The discussion then delves into technical details, so we present the official A. Lange & Söhne statement regarding this point from the FAQ on the Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold Lumen, included below as communicated to us.)
Why does the movement only consist of 684 components compared to the standard version’s 729? The evolution of the movement has also resulted in a reduction of the total component count. For example, the removal of the power-reserve indicator lowers the number of components, but the extra components required to implement the “Lumen” function do not offset this difference.
Is the movement new compared to the existing Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon? Yes, due to the special design features of a “Lumen” model and the absence of a power-reserve indicator, the movement has undergone significant enhancements.
Thus, it isn’t merely the same movement enhanced with lumen. Unfortunately, that approach isn’t feasible. When you view the Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold Lumen adjacent to all the chronographs (standard datographs), tourbillons, perpetual calendars, and limited editions in honeygold, this one watch embodies everything.
A. Lange & Söhne CEO Wilhelm Schmid
On that note regarding gold, a couple of queries – firstly, is this an indication of directions?
We are very clear in our direction. We maintain five traditional watch families and one that boasts a fairly contemporary design. Primarily, we focus on genuine traditional watchmaking; we introduced the Odysseus family in 2019 (to diversify), but one reason was to provide a space for experimentation with steel… whether we play with titanium or explore combinations of white gold and rubber, this is what we could pursue within the Odysseus collection. We manufacture very few steel watches each year—definitely less than hundreds. We do not alter the other five families with this sort of contemporary experimentation. Hence, this way, we can expand the scope of our design without compromising our core identity and preserve the established five families that have existed for a long time. Steel (and other non-precious materials) is not our central focus. Precious metals like white gold, platinum, yellow gold, and honeygold constitute the watches we produce. That forms our core business.
And about honeygold, which we are always thrilled about! Will we see more watches utilizing this material? It is one of the rare precious materials that offers functional benefits alongside aesthetic ones.
Indeed, but honeygold will always be reserved for limited editions, and we’ve never produced many. I think the total is about 2,000 watches in honeygold since its introduction in 2000. It is a very hard material, making it challenging to work with; it necessitates specialized treatment, and even during refurbishment (for servicing), it requires specific handling. You could argue that the hardness benefits wearers, which is true; however, it also poses challenges regarding production and servicing. Honeygold is difficult to machine due to its hardness (in comparison to standard gold), necessitating particular tools and techniques. Consequently, very few can manage it effectively, requiring consideration regarding the quantities we wish to produce. If thousands were produced, that would imply thousands to eventually service, and refurbishing the case necessitates an oxygen-free environment. Producing beyond our current scale is not sustainable.
The new watches this year are both boutique editions, yet A. Lange & Söhne is primarily available solely in your boutiques. Share your progress in internalizing the retail business and how this has affected availability and accessibility.
We are approximately 90 percent own-boutique globally. Simultaneously, we didn’t just inform our retail partners via an email that we are ceasing operations with them immediately. Historically, we’ve had excellent relationships with them, and transitioning things to our own boutiques takes time. There are customers engaging with any specific retailer, and we strive to cater to them as much as possible, based on commitments made on our behalf. We are still navigating this process; however, having significantly reduced (the external retail network), I can assert that there is now a certain level of availability at our boutiques. It’s not flawless, but it is an improvement compared to 18 months… or even six months ago! We anticipate witnessing the complete effects of our strategy over the next 18 months.
A dial-side view of calibre L952.4, which powers the Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold Lumen.
Yes, there is a process, and there is even a system for it because I prefer things that can be systemized. I believe you receive queries like this from individuals who do not have a connection with us; otherwise, they would understand! It mostly initiates with establishing familiarity with someone at the boutique. This concept always astonishes me… I mean, if you desire friendship, you don’t wander the street shouting, ‘I want a friend!’ expecting one to appear. In our personal lives, we understand how to forge friendships… establishing relationships based on individuals getting to know each other and building trust. Transitioning beyond something strictly transactional. However, in the watch industry, there are individuals interested in acquiring the rarest watches instantly. They often voice complaints, and we all have a sense of what they’d do with the watches once obtained.
Has that situation improved regarding flippers?
Absolutely! Because we now have insight into who purchases our watches. Anyone can do whatever they choose with their property—that’s not for me to dictate. Our goal is to discern whether (someone entering the boutique) is a genuine collector, as collectors represent our core market. Or is this individual someone who purchases with the intent to quickly resell? We can handle that ourselves; we don’t require a middleman. You also inquired about individuals who seek just one excellent piece from us, and only that one. We’re willing to accommodate that, but (the individual wanting one piece for a specific occasion) isn’t our target. Our focus is on collectors who acquire watches! They delve into our collections to discover what appeals to them and build their collections. It is a lengthy journey that spans not just a single year but many! This is why we feel the need to introduce novelties each year… this is why we must consistently go the extra mile because collectors are very knowledgeable.
Let’s conclude with a focus on both availability and production following up on the Odysseus Chronograph, which Tony shared would be ready for production this year.
Yes, indeed… It has transitioned from prototyping to manufacturing, but this will require more time than usual (compared to standard chronographs at A. Lange & Söhne) because this marks new territory for the watchmakers, as you’ve heard from Tony already. It has no precedents for us, so the calibre is being crafted from scratch. The watchmakers still require practice and experience to establish a routine for the automatic chronograph.
This article was originally published in WOW’s Legacy 2025 Issue.
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