Few traditional watchmaking brands exhibit the same dedication to playfulness as Hermès, more specifically known as Hermès Horloger in the realm of horology. This lively spirit is evident throughout the brand’s identity, as exemplified by the Slim d’Hermès Pocket Mysterious Rider. Notably, this pocket watch was launched following Watches and Wonders Geneva, as part of Hermès’ regular collection of Exceptional pieces. Importantly, this isn’t just a limited series – the Maison will produce only three of these masterpieces, and the intricate handcraftsmanship involved in the 45mm white gold timepiece explains this exclusive production. However, let’s not jump ahead…
The first thing you’ll notice is the vibrant cover, which is indeed a design inspired by an Hermès scarf. A finalist at the Grand Prix du Carré Hermès, Dutch artist Viktor Hachmang creates pop art infused with elements of manga and Japanese city pop. His use of bright colors and geometric shapes vividly brings the enigmatic rider to life, depicted on a stylized alternate universe Tronesque motorcycle against a backdrop reminiscent of the historic Hermès storefront at 24 Faubourg Saint-Honoré in Paris. And yes, this is a departure from the horse imagery typically associated with Hermès, which we believe is very much intentional.
The cover of the pocket watch, showcasing the pack’s leader, is made using the complex champlevé enamel technique. This craftsmanship entails creating pits in the metal and filling these grooves with colored glass powders mixed with natural oils. The covered material is then fired multiple times in a kiln at over 800°C to solidify the pigments. Beneath this stunning cover lies an elegant white enamel dial, produced using a similar, albeit less demanding, method. The dial involves a careful layering of enamel, where each layer is dried and fired before being embellished with hand-painted red numerals and hour markers. Of course, whether on the dial or the cover, if the material fractures in the kiln, the only solution is to start anew.
At the core of the Slim d’Hermès Pocket Mysterious Rider is the ultra-thin Hermès H1950 mechanical self-winding movement, crafted by long-time partners Vaucher. The timepiece is complemented by a matte Rouge H alligator leather strap and pouch, designed in accordance with Hermès’ acclaimed saddlery and leather craftsmanship, which enhances the deep crimson hues of this extraordinary piece.
Movement: Automatic H1950; 42-hour power reserve
Case: 45mm in white gold; water-resistant up to 30m
Strap: Matte rouge H alligator leather cordlet and pouch
Price: Upon request
This article was originally featured in WOW’s #74 Autumn 2024 Issue
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