In April of last year, Nick Leather embarked on a voyage from Conwy, Wales, to the Isle of Kerrera, as part of his circumnavigation of the British Isles. He shares his experiences of overcoming obstacles and relishing the thrill of exploring unfamiliar waters and landscapes.
With bleary eyes, we clumsily emerged from our sleeping bags as the boat gently swayed in her berth. Rushing to get ready, we donned our sailing gear, had breakfast, and prepared for the open sea. It was three in the morning, and the tranquility was about to be disrupted by the loud roar of the engine starting up, accompanied by the glow of the stern navigation light brightening the pushpit. This early wake-up call was vital for safely navigating the Conwy fairway and its sandbar. I estimated we had an hour to cross it during the ebb tide.
Everyone on board sensed the spirit of adventure. Accompanying me on this journey were my friends Colin, Jeremy, and Tim, experienced sailors ready to assist in navigating Musketeer, a Westerly Storm, from Conwy in Wales to Kerrera Marina in Scotland’s Inner Hebrides.
A stunning sunset casts a warm glow over Bangor Bay, Belfast. Photo: Nick Leather
With our rhumb line drawn and tidal calculations accounted for, we set off, motor sailing due to light winds. As the sun rose in the east, the Welsh coast gradually disappeared on the horizon, and we encountered an unexpected visitor. A small, unassuming green bird landed in the cockpit and ventured into the cabin before promptly taking off outside again. Colin snapped a picture and identified it as a greenfinch—one adventurous little bird.
Sailing Across the Irish Sea – First Stop: the Isle of Man
Hours later, the coastline of the Isle of Man came into view, and with the tide in our favor, we navigated through Calf Sound. To our port side, we spotted a series of old, abandoned lighthouses standing tall. The only operational lighthouse was located about six cables southwest of the Isle of Man. Calf Sound also had its surprises—numerous seals popped up to curiously observe us.
Peel Harbour and castle, Isle of Man. Photo: David Coleman | Have Camera Will Travel / Alamy
After sailing along the southwest edge of the Isle of Man with its towering cliffs, we reached the waypoint leading to Peel Harbour. Peel is the island’s third-largest town and boasts the best natural harbor on the west coast, renowned for its stunning sunsets.
Upon arrival, we picked up a buoy as low tide approached and the inner harbor’s entrances were drying. This was ideal, as we enjoyed a leisurely meal against the backdrop of the stunning 11th-century Peel Castle, constructed by Magnus III, the Norwegian king known as Magnus Barefoot. As darkness fell, the castle was illuminated, creating a dramatic contrast against the night sky.
The Hutcheson Monument in Kerrera overlooks Ardentrive Bay, honoring David Hutcheson’s contributions to maritime safety. Photo: John Peter Photography / Alamy Stock Photo
The next day, anticipation filled the air as we headed across the Irish Sea toward Ireland’s coast, driven by a brisk northerly Force 3-4 breeze beneath overcast skies. Was it the captivating scenery, wildlife, or just the excitement of visiting new places that heightened our sense of adventure? We could almost taste the Guinness and single malt whisky in the salty breeze.
With our sails drawn tightly and seated on the windward side of the cockpit, the refreshing sea air invigorated us. Everything felt alright as we neared the Irish coast, where the jagged outline of the Mourne Mountains began to take shape. Although light winds were expected, they increased to a gratifying strength, enabling us to sail close-hauled at around 6 knots.
Article continues below…
There are thousands of islands in the UK and Ireland. Our experts highlight the top 10 islands to sail to this year.
From afar, the Skellig Islands appeared as two jagged rocks jutting from the Atlantic. Skellig or Sceilg…
Following Titanic’s Path
As twilight approached and the winds shifted, we decided to start the engine and motor sail up Donaghadee Sound, which runs along the west side of Copeland Island. At that moment, a small pod of dolphins surfaced, playfully swimming across our bow before swimming away behind us.
After rounding a northern marker at South Briggs, we set our course toward Bangor Bay, where the buoys marking the way to Belfast were visible. It was remarkable to consider that RMS Titanic had passed this route over a century ago.
Now fully enveloped in darkness, we aimed for the red light signaling Bangor Marina, just as the heavens opened up, drenching us with heavy rain. Wet and worn out, we eventually located our berth just before 11 PM.
Colin and Tim keeping watch en route to Gigha. Photo: Nick Leather
Having never experienced Belfast, we spent the next day exploring the city, visiting the awe-inspiring Titanic Museum and enjoying the famous ‘Belfast welcome’ along with a variety of beers in stylish pubs.
Enchanting Scottish Landscape
Leaving Bangor the next morning, we set out into sunny weather and light north-easterly winds. For this leg of the journey, we motor sailed across Bangor Bay, with sunlight sparkling on a slight sea. The coastline was dramatic, featuring rocky cliffs above vibrant green grass. We passed Maiden Island and the Saddle, a group of rocks to starboard with a lighthouse and an abandoned light keeper’s cottage towering over the sea. In calm conditions, we began to see Rathlin Island through a growing haze before we turned port and entered Ballycastle harbor.
Gylen Castle, Isle of Kerrera. Photo: Wojciech Kruczynski / Alamy Stock Photo
After avoiding Vikings off the Isle of Man and eluding leprechauns, we bid farewell to Northern Ireland. The sky was overcast, with light easterly winds as Rathlin Island faded to our starboard, setting our course to avoid the Traffic Separation Scheme just to the north. As we left the island’s shelter, the wind rose to 14 knots, and we enjoyed good speed on a close reach, with clouds thinning to reveal bright sunshine illuminating the Hebridean islands ahead.
With the Mull of Kintyre to starboard, the hazy silhouettes of Jura and Islay appeared. We had never witnessed such breathtaking scenery. Our target was the Isle of Gigha, a southern Inner Hebridean island known for its many anchorages catering to varying wind directions.
Vivid tropical colors at the Isle of Gigha. Photo: Steve Taylor / Alamy Stock
As the Irish landscape began to recede and the Scottish courtesy flag flew from the starboard spreader, the dark shape of Gigha emerged from the distance. We reached our secluded sandy anchorage on the eastern side of the island and dropped anchor in 4 meters of water. A grey seal gazed at us from a nearby rock. With the engine off and the anchor checked, we swayed gently, surrounded by natural sounds, punctuated by the distant cries of seagulls.
As the sun set and the light sparkled on the rippling sea, a gentle warm breeze enveloped the anchorage, enhancing our connection to nature and the breathtaking landscape. Twilight settled in and the stars began to emerge, gradually forming the familiar constellations.
At dawn the next morning, the wind picked up from the southeast. After weighing anchor, we set off with one reef, but as winds increased, we added a second reef. The thick grey clouds rolled in, bringing with them intermittent sharp showers. At least we could enjoy a beam reach, achieving up to 7.3 knots over ground. As we sailed northwesterly, the Isles of Jura and the mainland approached, giving the impression we were being funneled in.
As Rathlin Island comes into view, we round Fair Head in Northern Ireland. Photo: Nick Leather
When the winds exceeded 20 knots, a sudden bang occurred; the mainsail lurched to port and began to flap violently. It took a moment to process what had happened—it turned out the stopper knot on the mainsheet had come undone, pulling out of the boom pulleys. We turned into the wind, restarted the engine, and successfully re-threaded the mainsheet through the blocks, securing its end. Finally, we could continue our journey past the islands of Reisa An T-Struith and Reisa Mhic Phaidean, leaving the island of Shuna to port as we approached the entrance to Craobh Haven marina.
Navigating the Race
The next day, we set off early from Craobh harbour into misty, drizzly weather, with our sights set on Kerrera marina for the final leg of our voyage. As our last full sailing day, we opted for a complex route that included crossing the Gulf of Corryvreckan. Nestled between Scarba and Jura, this notorious six-cable stretch of water is known for its turbulent tides, which can quickly turn into a chaotic whirlpool. Tides of 8-10 knots and an uneven seabed result in impressive seas even in moderate winds—waves higher than 9 meters have been recorded.
The tall ship Phoenix from 1929 docked in Belfast has featured in TV shows and films like Hornblower, Poldark, and The Heart of the Sea. Photo: Nick Leather
Sailors can only approach it during slack tide. Fortunately for us, our careful planning meant we arrived just as the tide slackened, and with gentle winds, the Gulf of Corryvreckan turned out to be peaceful and calm instead of fierce.
After passing Scarba to our right, we motored northwest along the northern side of the Garvellachs—a group of islets characterized by rocky shores and sandy beaches that appeared beautiful yet desolate. The sea became glassy, reflecting the stillness as we moved past Insh Island. Upon entering the Sound of Kerrera, the high heather-coated ridges of Kerrera rose on either side, while in the distance, the charming town of Oban came into view, marked by the black and white Caledonian MacBrayne ferries moving in and out of the northern entrance.
Colin, Jeremy, and Tim sailing toward the Isle of Man. Photo: Nick Leather
Finally, making a port turn, we moored at Kerrera marina, located on the island’s northeast side. This small harbor holds a rich historical significance, having served as a coastal command station for Sunderland flying boats during World War II.
After having a bite to eat, we climbed the surrounding hills to enjoy breathtaking 360° views, with sunlight illuminating the distant mountains, allowing us to appreciate the stunning scenery and plan for our next adventure in the sparkling Sound of Mull.
The typically turbulent Gulf of Corryvreckan was surprisingly calm during Nick and his crew’s experience. Photo: Brian Gavin / Alamy Stock Photo
Did you enjoy this?
A subscription to Yachting Monthly magazine is about 40% cheaper than the cover price, helping you save money compared to purchasing individual issues.
Print and digital editions are available through Magazines Direct, where you can also find the latest deals.
YM is full of information designed to enhance your time on the water.
Enhance your seamanship with expert tips, advice, and skills.
Find unbiased in-depth reviews of the latest yachts and equipment.
Discover cruising guides that lead you to your dream destinations.
Follow us on Facebook, Twitter, and Instagram.