Tissot PR516 and PRX Forged Carbon
As previously mentioned multiple times, finding engaging watchmaking content that is also affordable is quite challenging. Often, as the novelty factor increases, so do the prices – a natural outcome in the watchmaking sector due to economies of scale. Take, for instance, the forged carbon material, primarily used by luxury watch manufacturers commanding a premium for it. The Tissot Sideral – featured in WOW’s cover story exactly one year ago – dramatically changed this scenario. This shift was not merely a one-time occurrence for the brand, as detailed in WOW’s Autumn Issue #74.
This year, instead of diving into Tissot’s material experimentation history, we chose to consult CEO Sylvain Dolla for his insights. Remarkably, Dolla has just entered his 20th year with Swatch Group – starting his career with the Swatch Paparazzi watch – and considers himself a true watch lover. Before leading Tissot, Dolla spent 15 fruitful years at Hamilton, and we’re inclined to credit some of that brand’s achievements to him. This perspective becomes complex, as Swatch Group operates as a collective, meaning multiple leaders influence each project.
The PRX that so captivated us in 2021, particularly the automatic version that graced the cover of that year’s Autumn issue, can indeed be attributed to Dolla. This is because he stumbled upon – or perhaps rediscovered – the original 1970s model inspiring the PRX, which he has shared with several publications, including us, Time and Tide, and WatchPro most recently. This design was certainly not the result of a focus group, as Dolla famously clarified to Alexandre Lindz of WatchAdvisor.
Runaway Success
If you’re curious about what lends the PRX its commercial success, this might shed some light. Essentially, a watch aficionado uncovered a hidden gem in the archives of the brand he was leading and had an intuitive feeling about it. This sounds fitting for a successful sports elegance watch in the 2020s.
This issue, despite having a soloist on the cover, is truly a collaborative showcase, spanning from the PRX Forged Carbon piece to the PRX Grendizer and several new dial variations, including the PR516. If this is new information to you, it’s likely you haven’t been properly introduced to the PRX line. Regardless, you might be unaware of our previous thoughts on the collection.
If you are encountering the Tissot PRX for the first time here, you’ve overlooked one of the biggest stories in Swiss watchmaking recently. The unassuming quartz version, also named PRX, was so successful it sold out in various markets back in 2021. A few years later, the collection has made a significant impact and has evolved multiple times – becoming emblematic of a trend Tissot couldn’t have anticipated with the launch of that first model. As we pointed out three years ago, that is not the original watch, and plenty of interesting history exists here.
Colourful Ensemble
You can encapsulate what makes the PRX exceptional in one word: desirability. We recognized this in 2021 and continue to stand by it – retrofuturism is currently a potent driving force in watch design, perhaps more than ever. Whether it’s the 40mm time-only model, the smaller 35mm version; the quartz debut or the automatic chronograph; and now the new vibrant variants, there seems to be at least one PRX on everyone’s shopping list. Honestly, it’s likely more than that, which is where the new dial choices come into play. There are six such watches (three 40mm automatic models, one automatic 35mm model, and two 35mm quartz PRX variants), featuring dials that range from gradient blue to brushed pink. Check out the accompanying photos of the actual watches for references that surpass mere descriptions.
To underline what we previously noted in 2021, when we say everyone’s shopping list, we refer to the rare overlap between collectors and everyday watch seekers. The proportions are suitable for daily wear unless you have a very large wrist, in which case the 13.5mm thick PRX Automatic Chronograph could be a better fit – don’t forget to check out the PR516 manual-winder featured later in this story.
Regarding the lugs, the integrated bracelet significantly affects how the watch fits. The nearly non-existent lugs of this barrel-shaped case ensure a comfortable wear, even allowing it to fit under your sleeve. However, exceptionally snug sleeves may pose a challenge, making the slimmer quartz variant (9.6mm thick compared to up to 11.2mm for the automatic) a more reasonable choice. The sapphire crystal is flat, both top and bottom, thus providing an accurate thickness measurement. This, as mentioned, is a comprehensive watch design with sporty undertones. Tissot explicitly acknowledges this in the PRX name, which signifies Precise, Robust, and water-resistant up to 100 meters (the X stands for 10 bar, a pressure unit). All things considered, PRX is a cool moniker.
Future Tense
Just as the PRX offers a fresh perspective on Tissot, it also opens the door to many chapters in the brand’s history that may have been overlooked in recent years. When Tissot began using automatic movements with the silicon balance springs developed by Swatch Group, we were incredibly enthusiastic. In 2018, these technically advanced mechanical components were predominantly utilized in Omega, Blancpain, and Breguet, and we never viewed a balance spring as denoting anything particularly high-end. After all, no one can see this, or recognize it even if they do. The critical factor remains, and always will be, the watch itself.
In 2018, this was the Tissot Ballade, a handsome timepiece that could have been yours for under USD 1,000. The market appeared rather skeptical, particularly considering the necessary price increases. We firmly believed that there was interest in Tissot’s automatic watches beyond the basic ETA variants. It’s worth noting that Tissot manufactures gold watches and pocket watches, with a history centered on innovation for the broadest audience possible. This represents the genuine starting point for the Tissot PRX narrative.
Now, we arrive at the direct roots of the PRX. Tissot states that the current iteration references a Seastar model from 1978, but it could equally connect to the early 1970s PR516 series. To gain the official perspective on the PRX and its significance in Tissot’s history, we consulted Dolla personally. “Since the PRX is a model originally launched in 1978, our goal was to rejuvenate this piece to align with today’s vintage trend. It reflects Tissot’s commitment to its heritage while adapting to contemporary fashions. In today’s context, more than ever, new challenges naturally drive innovative strategies, though our background and history remain unchanged.”
PRX Grendizer
When the announcement of the Tissot collaboration with the classic manga and anime UFO Robot Grendizer came out, we could hardly believe it. This marks a first for Tissot and potentially establishes the first collaboration between a Swiss watchmaker and creators of a Japanese comic book, which is what manga is. We were so excited about this that we debated using it as the cover story; the narrative here is rich, but for hardcore watchmaking content, the Forged Carbon model was the better choice. However, since that watch also gets attention elsewhere, we decided to dedicate some time to the Tissot PRX Grendizer.
While the PRX Grendizer is just one model, it may well signal future cross-cultural ventures for Tissot. Choosing to go with the PRX model, reflective of the 1970s, alongside a manga that was popular in Switzerland during the same era, carries significant meaning. It likely resonates with the childhood memories of various prominent figures in the watch industry, including Max Busser. Interestingly, it was the first MB&F watch that introduced Grendizer to the attention of editors, as Busser shared how his childhood interests fueled his creativity. It turns out Dolla was also a fan in his youth… Over two decades later, a vital player in Switzerland’s watchmaking field – part of the largest collective of watchmakers globally – is welcoming Grendizer just as a reboot of the series, Grendizer U, gets underway.
On that note, the manga deserves a brief introduction. Created by Go Nagai, a pivotal figure in the super robot genre, the story revolves around an alien prince escaping the destruction of his planet, accompanied by his super robot, Grendizer. After finding refuge on Earth, the prince and his robot must defend their new home from the same adversary that destroyed his original world. Accordingly, the dial features the original Japanese title of the series: UFOロボ グレンダイザー.
This sentiment comes solely from our editorial team, but Grendizer is an impactful symbol, even for those who may not be familiar with the world of manga. The image of Grendizer featured on the blue dial of the PRX UFO Robot Grendizer is captivating. You don’t have to take our word for it – look at it and envision it in dim lighting, where the yellow SuperLuminova causes the robot’s bust to glow. In this setting, you’ll also notice that the watch hands and markers, treated with Super-Luminova, emit a different hue (blue). While this choice likely serves readability, it injects a vibrant spirit into the watch, evoking images of neon-lit Tokyo. Lastly, note that the second hand features a Harken motif, which is not treated with Super-Luminova.
PR516
The second and final model we’ll discuss is the PR516, a chronograph we’ve contemplated since its debut earlier this year. This is a significant chronograph by any standard, being a manual-winder. We were in shock upon discovering its existence, which is groundbreaking for Tissot – showcasing the newly developed Valjoux A05.291 movement. Tissot claims it’s derived from the well-known 7753 caliber, familiar to many enthusiasts. This development was pivotal enough that Tissot released a technical press statement regarding it, a noteworthy event in itself. Typically, only the most traditional watchmakers create manual-winding chronographs as a tribute to the art of fine watchmaking.
Admittedly, a manual-winding option from Tissot was unexpected, and while there isn’t meticulous hand-finishing visible through the exhibition caseback, that isn’t the central focus. The fascinating aspect is Tissot’s belief in the market for such a timepiece. Tissot deliberately emphasizes chronographs on its website, with the PR516 being the only model listed under the “mechanical” category. Should a watch enthusiast stumble upon this watch while searching for a PRX, they’ll be pleasantly surprised – there’s something uniquely appealing about a manual chronograph calibre in operation, unencumbered by a rotor. Priced at SGD 2,620, the PR516 represents an outstanding value proposition as well. It’s worth mentioning that Tissot is capitalizing on Swatch Group’s industrial capabilities to deliver a chronograph with up to 68 hours of power reserve and an anti-magnetic escapement featuring precision laser regulation. It’s safe to assert that nothing else like this exists in its price range.
Photography by ching@greenplasticsoldiers
Styling by Gregory Woo
This article was first published in WOW’s Autumn Issue #74.
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