The realm of luxury is incomplete without an appreciation for fine jewellery. For many years, the industry has extended the limits of creativity and craftsmanship, producing pieces that have become cultural symbols or indicators of significant status. Beyond mere admiration, high-end jewellery has evolved into a compelling medium for storytelling — enabling artisans to push their creative boundaries and bring imaginative visions into reality.
At the core of this artistic transformation is the creation of unique motifs and methods by some of the globe’s most esteemed jewellery brands. Be it Van Cleef & Arpels’ enchanting creatures or Buccellati’s “rigato” gold, these designs have developed into not just recognizable emblems of their brands but also vital components of the story intertwined in each collection. The enduring charm of these jewellery items lies in their dual identity as sought-after gems, capable of inspiring elegance and dreams.
Van Cleef & Arpels Treasure Island
Inspired by Robert Louis Stevenson’s timeless adventure tale, Treasure Island, Van Cleef & Arpels’ latest High Jewellery collection sets off on an exciting voyage, reinterpreting the legendary narrative through stunning creations and expert craftsmanship. This collection — divided into three “chapters” — takes inspiration from the book’s ocean journey, colorful characters, and the quest for hidden riches.
The En haute mer Transformable Necklace and Ring is inspired by maritime navigation. This necklace is detailed with intricately woven yellow and white gold, creating a three-dimensional effect reminiscent of ropes utilized on ships. Various knots including sheet bends, carrick bends, reef knots, and clove hitches are replicated in precious metals, constituting the necklace’s collar. At the heart of this piece is a magnificent 55.34-carat emerald-cut blue sapphire, cradled within the braided design. This enchanting gemstone is removable, allowing the necklace to convert into a solitaire ring.
The second chapter sees Van Cleef & Arpels delve into the vibrant scenes of the fabled island. The Coquilles Mystérieuses Bracelet draws from decorative features of the Rococo period’s architecture and artistry. Smooth lines and three-dimensional shapes merge to echo the contours of seashells littering the island’s beaches, adorned with scalloped edges of white gold. Utilizing their patented Traditional Mystery Set technique, the artisans manage to craft the illusion of rows of gemstones seemingly held together without any visible metal framework.
The grand finale of the collection highlights the essential treasure hunt theme of the novel and alludes to South America. The Roi d’Uxmal, Gardien de Palenque, and Danseur de Tikal pieces are a set of clips that employ Mayan imagery. Each piece boasts a rose-cut diamond face — a favored technique of Van Cleef & Arpels since the iconic fairy collection of the 1940s. Elaborate headdresses embellish the Mayan figures crafted from metal, featuring a mix of baguette and pear-shaped blue and pink sapphires.
Dior Diorama & Diorgami
The imagery of romance has long been linked to Dior, with its notable Toile de Jouy vibrant in many collections. Its latest haute joaillerie collection, Diorama & Diorgami, introduces a picturesque, enchanted forest populated with delicate woodland creatures carved from precious gemstones.
The highlight of the initial chapter in Diorama & Diorgami is the Forêt Enchantée — a captivating ensemble of squirrels, swans, deer, and rabbits chiselled from chrysoprase, harmoniously entwined into a necklace embellished with tsavorite garnets, diamonds, and a lush 16.16-carat Colombian emerald.
A stark element within this dual-themed collection is its homage to the art of pleating, mirrored in the jewellery pieces resembling origami flowers. To capture the vibrant greenery of forest environments, a blend of white, pink, and yellow gold is utilized, set with rubies, emeralds, pink sapphires, and red spinels. The final design embodies a blooming arrangement of variously hued flowers across necklaces, rings, earrings, and ear cuffs.
Dior’s second chapter in its high jewellery collection continues the thematic expression of nature with even more breathtaking creations. A graceful yellow gold swan serves as the centerpiece on a necklace, ring, and earrings. Its elegant features are adorned with diamonds, soaring above a serene mother-of-pearl pond or lounging against a striking blue sapphire.
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Bulgari Aeterna
Marking its 140th anniversary, Bulgari has unveiled the Aeterna collection — a remarkable testament to the brand’s heritage and innovative spirit. Drawing from the essence of Rome, the Eternal City, the collection harmonizes the past, present, and future through a series of exquisite high jewellery pieces that showcase the house’s expertise in jewellery creation and horology.
The centerpiece of this collection is the Serpenti Aeterna necklace, which evokes Bulgari’s iconic Serpenti design. This exquisite piece features an astounding 140 carats of D-flawless diamonds, including seven pear-shaped diamonds crafted from a 200-carat rough stone. The diamonds are then set in a flexible, sinuous platinum framework that mimics serpentine movement, further complemented by 698 baguette diamonds.
The Sapphire Brocade necklace, adorned with 63.48 carats of diamonds and sapphires, exemplifies the brand’s dedication to exquisite craftsmanship. The assembly of precious stones took a two-year duration, and this piece showcases 13 cushion-cut sapphires and buff-top emeralds, with such opulence that it resembles an ornate lace collar more than just a necklace. Matching earrings, embellished with sapphires, emeralds, and diamonds, enhance the overall piece, showcasing Bulgari’s signature color combinations.
Tiffany & Co. Blue Book 2024: Tiffany Céleste
The annual high jewellery collection from Tiffany & Co. reappears with a fresh celestial theme. The 2024 Tiffany Blue Book Collection is named Tiffany Céleste, honoring the House’s iconic jeweller Jean Schlumberger, and reflecting his fascination with the world’s wonders. Tiffany Céleste reinterprets Schlumberger’s archival designs across four main themes: Owl on a Rock, Phoenix, Unicorn, and Star Burst.
Filled with mystical creatures, the Phoenix collection is a fiery highlight. The ashes and rebirth related to the phoenix are conveyed through two signature pieces: a brooch and a ring, each boasting a dazzling fire opal. The brooch features a stunning 29-carat fire opal, enhanced with Umba sapphires, tsavorites, and diamonds, while the ring accentuates a 9-carat fire opal, outlined by the same stunning gemstones. This segment also includes a magnificent necklace, inspired by the vibrancy and form of phoenix wings rising from the ashes. Crafted over 1,400 hours, the necklace is adorned with 17 cushion-cut rubellites, totaling over 73 carats.
Schlumberger’s fascination with mythical beings is also explored through the Unicorn theme, where his iconic Crazy Twist designs are reimagined in an enchanting approach. The unicorn’s spiraled horn plays a significant role in this chapter, prominently featured in a necklace set with pink and purple sapphires, forming a harmonious swirl of color. An additional signature piece is the unicorn brooch, featuring a bicolour cushion-cut tourmaline that subtly shifts colors as light strikes it.
Mikimoto x Chrome Hearts
Mikimoto, celebrated for its remarkable craftsmanship of pearls, has collaborated with Chrome Hearts, the avant-garde jeweller known for its striking, rebellious designs. This partnership has produced a whimsical collection that brings together timeless elegance and an edgy edge, embodying the essence of both brands.
The collaboration features eleven exquisite jewellery items, including a daring safety-pin brooch and heart-shaped pearl drop earrings, merging Chrome Hearts’ gothic influences with the delicacy of Mikimoto’s Akoya and White South Sea pearls. However, the collection’s highlights are the four bespoke limited-edition necklaces. An example is the hand-crafted choker that perfectly merges a punk aesthetic with luxurious pearl accents. A chain of Chrome Hearts’ signature crosses engages in a lattice design, encrusted with diamonds and featuring a cultured pearl at the center.
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Chopard Contes de Fées
Chopard has been an official partner of the Cannes Film Festival since 1998, fostering a tradition of celebrating cinematic artistry in diverse forms. This year, Chopard’s artistic director, Caroline Scheufele, has envisioned the Contes de Fées Red Carpet Collection. Translated from French to “fairytale,” this theme is particularly suited for one of the globe’s most extravagant film festivals.
This collection brings traditional elements from classic fairytales to life as whimsical jewellery pieces. A central theme of this collection is an enchanted forest. A mesmerizing necklace echoes a majestic oak tree. This piece showcases an intricate composition of vivid sapphires, emeralds, tsavorites, demantoid garnets, and diamonds, reflecting the earthy colors and textures found in a woodland setting. The design features delicate acorns that dangle from a rose gold cord, resembling branches of the tree stretching outwards.
Mushrooms, often seen in fairytale forests, are creatively interpreted into Chopard’s diamond-encrusted ring. Cognac diamonds form the cap of the mushroom, while its stem gracefully curls into a circular shape that nestles neatly on the finger. Simultaneously, pink fairies dangle from oak leaf-shaped earrings, adorned with emeralds.
The beloved story of “Princess and the Frog” is also weaved into this collection. This innovative frog-inspired ring features two intricately crafted frogs that embrace a stunning 17.71-carat rubellite, elegantly set upon a gold crown. A sense of nostalgia is added through Scheufele’s cherished childhood character — the clown, transformed into an enchanting diamond pendant. With its joyful visage and playful attire, this piece evokes the innocence and joy inherent to fantasy tales.
FRED Colours That Shimmer Under FRED’s Sun
Dubbed “The Sunshine Jeweler,” FRED’s newest collection is a brilliant tribute to the hues of the sun and sea. Each color story vividly captures the life experiences of founder Fred Samuel, infusing the brand’s most beloved designs with his most treasured memories.
One prime example is the Pain de Sucre collection, which embodies the essence of the French Riviera — a locale treasured by Fred Samuel. This select limited-edition set features two interchangeable plates with exquisite inlays, depicting a tranquil summer vista. The first plate presents a diamond-paved pontoon extending into a lapis ocean against a turquoise backdrop. The second illustrates a sandy beach with golden grains melding with a turquoise wave sparkling with diamond flecks.
As part of FRED’s Pretty Woman collection — a lineup of charming heart-themed jewellery — the Maxi Hypnotic Ideal Light necklace is crafted to create the illusion of being bathed in sunlight. The necklace comprises four movable hearts, embellished with pink opal, yellow agate, orange carnelian, and red coral. Adorned with engravings of sun rays, these hearts are reversible, featuring a diamond-studded back side, providing a total of 16 unique combinations. Meanwhile, the necklace’s pink gold chain is accented with seven links, each set with a gradient of yellow sapphires, orange sapphires, and rubies.
Special Mention:
Dior Galons
In honor of haute couture, Dior Joaillerie presents the Galons Dior collection, named after the fabric strips that delicately finish each garment. In this collection, Dior’s artistic director Victoire de Castellane transforms these ornamental trimmings into stunning wearable art. The Galons Dior collection celebrates these refined embellishments across four unique variations: Milieu du Siècle, Floral, Zigzag, and Pearly Galons. Each design is meticulously crafted in rose and yellow gold, accentuated with subtle diamond details.
At the center of this collection is the Galons Dior necklace that intertwines all four fabric techniques and textures, achieving a feat of high jewellery. Created with four meticulously braided strands of gold, each is painstakingly assembled using hidden links, enabling the patterns to cascade organically, as if naturally adorning Dior’s haute couture silhouettes. These braids twist, twirl, and knot, resulting in a captivating play of asymmetry and repetition.
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