Center console fishermen can maximize every gallon of gas by reducing weight, keeping the boat properly trimmed, and planning fishing excursions for optimal efficiency.
By Barry Gibson
Fuel prices at marinas and gas stations have significantly decreased from the excruciatingly high rates of five or six years ago, which reduces the stress of refilling your boat’s fuel tank. Nonetheless, you can stretch each gallon further by making a few straightforward modifications to your boat, engine, and fishing trips.
The biggest fuel consumer is unnecessary weight, particularly the amount of fuel you carry. My 28-foot center console has a fuel capacity of 150 gallons, but I rarely fill it up. I can generally estimate how many gallons I’ll use on a given fishing trip, usually between 25 and 35 gallons, so I typically only fill it to no more than 100 gallons. Why haul around an extra 300 pounds? Carrying excess fuel is simply inefficient. The same principle applies to your boat’s freshwater tank, by the way.
Eliminate Unneeded Weight!
You can lose those “unneeded pounds” in various other ways as well. Do you genuinely need to bring four cases of spring water, a case of oil, and two additional anchors on every outing? Is it essential to carry all your cleaning supplies? Does eccentric Cousin Dexter need to tag along? Probably not. Remove everything you don’t absolutely require for one trip and stash it in a dock box or your garage. Dexter would probably prefer to stay home and play video games anyway.
Another strategy is to empty your live well when it’s not in use. I have a 30-gallon well in the stern, and we frequently catch a load of mackerel or herring at the start of our trip before heading to the fishing grounds. While I need a full well to keep the bait lively during the fishing day, there’s no need to haul 240 pounds of seawater back home, which weighs about as much as another football player on board. We generally release any leftover bait and drain the well before heading back to the dock.
There’s also another “weight issue” that your boat might have which you may not notice. Ever lift a gallon of antifouling paint? Heavy, right? That’s because it contains biocides like copper, as well as heavy “binders” and other materials that help it function. After the initial bottom application, I only paint from the boot top down to the chine for the next five years, or even longer. If you routinely paint your boat’s entire bottom yearly, you could be adding 100 or more fuel-consuming pounds of paint.
People who inspect the bottom of my boat when it’s out of the water are always surprised when I mention I haven’t painted it in six or seven years. Then they ask, “What paint do you use?” So I tell them. Water-based Pettit Hydrocoat, priced at $169 a gallon. The best bottom paint I’ve discovered for saltwater.
Correct Prop, Correct Position
You must utilize the right propeller. This is crucial for maximizing efficiency. Your prop should allow your engine to operate within the stated rpm range that provides the maximum horsepower for which your engine is rated. For example, if your 150 hp four-stroke outboard delivers its rated horsepower between 5,000 and 6,000 rpm, it should be capable of reaching that range. If it only reaches 4,500 rpm at full throttle, you have a problem, likely due to the propeller having too much pitch and/or blade diameter for your application. Consult the engine manufacturer and/or a dealer, and provide them with your boat’s basic specifications (length, bottom type, weight, etc.). Often, they can input the information into a computer and advise you on the correct prop size. Even a single inch of pitch can sometimes make a significant difference.
Most marine engines have a specific rpm range at cruise speed, known as the “sweet spot,” that’s the most fuel-efficient. This is where your gallons-per-hour (gph) gauge comes into play. Most large outboard motors and I/Os now feature this function in their standard instruments or you can purchase an aftermarket flow meter. Analyze your gph in relation to speed (via GPS) and engine trim angle until you identify the rpm or range that offers you the furthest distance per gallon of fuel.
Trimming It Right
This brings us to trimming. Your boat is designed to operate most effectively at a specific attitude (bow height), and proper trim is typically when the boat rides level from port to starboard. You can easily adjust the boat’s attitude with the power tilt switch on the engine, but unless you have trim tabs, rearranging passengers might be necessary to “trim” the boat so it runs level. If people are sitting unevenly and the boat isn’t riding on its entire bottom, you’re losing efficiency. There’s no alternative to shifting people and gear around until your boat is properly trimmed, even if you have tabs.
Finally, develop a strategy for your fishing trips. Spend time planning a course that will allow you to use the least amount of fuel on any given day. Account for tides, time of day, “bite windows,” and more, then devise a route to your fishing spots and back that eliminates fuel-wasting side trips and backtracking.
Combine all these strategies, and you might save enough on gas this season to purchase some new rods and reels.