Guy Malpas explores Corsica, Sardinia, and Italy on the inaugural voyage of his Hallberg-Rassy yacht
Realizing my dream of cruising the Mediterranean on my own yacht came true in 2023 when I took delivery of a new Hallberg-Rassy 372 in June in Ellös, Sweden. The opportunities were there—let’s seize them!
I arrived early at the Hallberg-Rassy yard in Ellös and stepped aboard Palaemon III for the first time. It felt like meeting a new life partner. After a quick tour of the yacht, we unpacked and set sail.
With sails up in a gentle breeze, we headed north toward Norway, navigating through the stunning elements of Sweden—between tiny islets, picturesque wooden houses in russet reds and mustard yellows, and through narrow channels leading into Norway.
After a short stop in Norway, we returned south to Sweden, settling for the night at Havstenssund. With the wharf fully booked, we moored next to the beautiful ketch Athena, and enjoyed local herring, red onion, eggs, and fennel on a sunlit balcony, savoring a well-earned beer.
Upon returning to Ellös, Palaemon III was lifted out and transported to Port Grimaud in France. Once I recommissioned Palaemon, I embarked on a solo sailing trip to Cannes. Tacking through the Golfe de Saint-Tropez under glorious sunshine was a highlight—just me, my yacht, and the open sea!
We cruised past the rugged Esterel mountains, gearing up for my first solo reverse mooring during a busy late afternoon at Cannes Vieux Port. I successfully maneuvered without a scratch—so far, so good!
Porto Venere was one of the beautiful harbors Guy visited while sailing the Italian Riviera
One of the best moments was sharing my Mediterranean adventure with friends. Two days after our essential launch party, we departed Cannes for Antibes in a brisk Force 5-7 westerly wind, with gusts reaching 42 knots. Our journey to Antibes was steady, and I called for help from the capitainerie dinghy to dock safely amidst the winds. With my aviation background, I prioritize safety over pride.
The next day, we sailed with more friends to Villefranche-sur-Mer and then Monaco, where, as guests of the Yacht Club de Monaco, we docked right outside the stunning clubhouse designed by Norman Foster, enjoying champagne that flowed generously.
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We initially planned to sail to Calvi on Corsica, but with strong westerly winds, we redirected to Bastia instead. We had a delightful day motoring in sunshine, witnessing dolphins and even a whale. As predicted, the evening brought stronger winds of up to 20 knots, with the sea becoming choppy from a continuous rolling swell.
After setting our reefs and completing safety briefs, we navigated confidently under the full moon, which made it easier to interpret the sea conditions.
Our progress on the 120-mile journey to Bastia was swift, leading us to linger outside the harbor until it opened. Sailing down the eastern coast of Corsica was a treat—easy sailing, lovely landscape, and beautiful waters.
Family and friends come together for Guy’s launch party before setting sail
After passing Solenzara, I was alone aboard for a night at anchor in the enchanting Baie San Cyprien, before sailing on to Bonifacio to pick up my friend Jonathan. The historic district perched above the harbor entrance is breathtaking, especially at sunset.
From Bonifacio, we sailed north to Ajaccio, embarking on a long day’s journey, and then down to Propriano, where we admired beautiful beaches. We returned to Bonifacio to revisit this lovely town before heading to Sardinia.
Arriving in Costa Smeralda offered a mixed experience—despite the stunning waters and landscape, the high number of leisure boats, many seemingly operated by novices, created a challenging atmosphere.
Beginning our route to the Italian mainland’s west coast at Porto Rotondo, we motor-sailed pleasantly across the 250 miles of the Tyrrhenian Sea to Salerno. From Salerno, we traveled north along the west coast, passing by lesser-known small towns and harbors.
Due to a lack of berths in Naples, we opted for the harbor of Torre Del Greco, nestled in the dramatic shadow of Mount Vesuvius. The rather worn harbor revealed the atmospheric yacht club Circolo Nautico Torre Del Greco, boasting a notable 1960s clubhouse.
Palaemon III docked in Cap D’Ail, towards the end of the journey
We continued up the west coast but had to adjust our plans due to weather changes. We took an unplanned stop at the excellent Marina di Pisa. Every port we visited along this stretch of the Italian coast was beautiful. Carrara marble is quarried from the nearby mountains and visible from the water.
Our next stops included Porto Venere and Rapallo, a classic Italian riviera town. Finally, we arrived in Genoa, where we were graciously hosted by the Yacht Club Italiano. From Genoa, I sailed solo along the coast to Varazze, Marina di Loano, and San Remo, finally reaching Cap d’Ail before heading back to Cannes for winter storage.
Having sailed over 1,400 miles, I not only shared the journey with wonderful friends, but also built my self-confidence. Such experiences don’t happen by chance; one must create them. As many readers likely know, it’s not always smooth sailing. Still, it was incredibly rewarding, and I intend to return this summer!
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