Breguet Classique 5345 Quai de L’Horloge
In June of this year, fine watchmaking witnessed one of its more unique moments: an innovative marketing strategy that combined history and tradition with a drive to dominate social media. On June 26, 1801, Abraham-Louis Breguet patented the tourbillon, revolutionizing watchmaking; the modern brand that carries on his legacy honors this milestone annually with a new creation. This year, it showcases the Classique Double Tourbillon 5345 “Quai de L’Horloge,” featuring the renowned calibre 588N, presented here as calibre 588N2. It’s important to note that capturing the essence of a grand complication like reference 5345 in a brief article is a significant challenge. In 2022, the last iteration of this reference was the centerpiece of our extensive 10-page cover story in the Legacy issue.
That said, here’s an attempt at a concise overview. When examining this watch, it’s crucial to engage your imagination; a static image does little to convey its enchantment. For instance, the double tourbillon employs a central differential to move the entire plate, indicating the hours (with one full rotation taking 12 hours). Upon its introduction in 2006, this was revolutionary as it turned the tourbillon, typically a technical feature, into a proper time display. The gold plate supporting the tourbillons rotates with the (blue) hour hand, which also serves as the upper bridge for one of the tourbillons. Its extension, in a contrasting color, operates as the bridge for the second tourbillon. This shared bridge is affixed to a central plate (as mentioned earlier); both tourbillons still rotate once each minute (as usual), and the watch averages the escapements’ rates to track time.
Breguet Classique 5345 Quai de L’Horloge
The description provided applies to all iterations of this model, including the original reference 5347. For reference 5345BR/1S/5XU, to use its complete catalogue number, Breguet excels in showcasing the brand’s mastery over both mechanics and artistic crafts. This new version is contained within a predictably large case to accommodate the calibre, housing its dual tourbillons and three gear trains. Collectors expecting understated design may overlook the Breguet motifs atop the mainspring barrels, which act as skeletonized bridges. Instead, the rose gold timepiece invites recollections of the late Nicolas G. Hayek, a larger-than-life figure known for wearing multiple Swatch Group timepieces.
The rear of the watch reveals the manual-winding calibre, consisting of 740 components, each intricately hand-finished by the brand’s artisans. Although the technical wonders are most apparent on the dial side, the movement’s reverse also highlights this exceptional craftsmanship. The bridges are adorned with an engraving depicting an aerial view of Abraham-Louis Breguet’s historic workshop at 39 Quai de l’Horloge in Paris. This detailed engraving, different from earlier models, employs various techniques to create depth and perspective on the gold plate. It captivates the eye; both Hayek and Abraham-Louis would surely be proud.
Movement: Manual calibre 588N2 with double tourbillon; 50-hour power reserve
Case: 46mm in rose gold; water-resistant to 100m
Strap: Midnight blue rubber
Price: Available upon request
This article originally appeared in WOW’s Autumn Issue #74.
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