After Olivier Polge succeeded his father, the renowned perfumer Jacques Polge, as Chanel’s fourth in-house perfumer in 2015, the brand’s fragrance lineup has transformed to include innovative interpretations that honor Gabrielle Chanel’s legacy. With a background in art history, Polge brings an artistic touch to his work, merging history, culture, and scent. This approach enables him to perceive fragrance as a narrative device that transcends being just another product of Chanel’s timeless elegance.
“A good fragrance elevates the spirit. It resembles the aroma of fresh bread or coffee in the morning — simple yet evocative, much like the subtle elegance that Chanel represents.” — Olivier Polge
Polge’s entry into the realm of perfumery wasn’t a direct path influenced by his father’s profession. He consciously separated himself from his father’s legacy and immersed himself in the study of art history. “I was determined not to follow my father’s footsteps as a teenager because he was a perfumer,” Polge remarked. A turning point occurred one summer when he succumbed to the captivating essence of scent during an internship in his father’s fragrance lab. Experiencing the intricate balance between technical skill and creative intuition captivated him and led him down the path of perfumery. Contrary to expectations, however, Polge did not learn perfumery directly from his father. “When I expressed my desire to train in perfumery, my father thought it best to send me elsewhere. He encouraged me to learn from others instead,” Polge explained. “He helped me cultivate my sensibility and taste, indirectly shaping my professional outlook.”
At the core of Polge’s philosophy is a dedication to creating and innovating rather than merely replicating existing fragrances. This is evident in his work on N°5 L’Eau, launched in 2016, where he revisited the original N°5’s foundational aspects, infusing them with a contemporary approach. The result was a fresher and lighter scent that appealed to modern tastes, while still representing N°5’s iconic complexity. To date, Polge has produced 20 new fragrances for Chanel, with this year’s latest addition to the Les Exclusif line being the Comete.
Grasse Jasmine plays a vital role in Chanel’s scent landscape as the origin of Ernest Beaux’s 1921 creation, the legendary N°5.
As global preferences shift, Polge remains acutely aware of the significance of crafting fragrances that resonate on a universal level. Rather than chasing fleeting trends, he embeds Gabrielle Chanel’s innovative spirit into each fragrance he designs. During his inaugural visit to Singapore and Southeast Asia, we spoke with Olivier Polge about Chanel’s aromatic universe and more.
"It’s your first time in Singapore, and you’ve explored Chinatown and Little India. How do you think different cultures shape perceptions of fragrance?"
"Diversity matters, and I cherish living in such an interconnected world. Perfume is a cultural artifact, and while Chanel is an internationally recognized brand anchored in French and European heritage, we craft fragrances in France for a global audience. It’s wonderful to observe the various preferences across countries."
"Fragrances can smell differently on individuals. Can you elaborate and share what someone should consider when selecting a fragrance?"
“There’s a chemistry that causes a perfume to evolve differently on each skin. This personal reaction is what makes the world of perfumery so fascinating. There isn’t one definitive answer when it comes to selecting a fragrance. I design scents with a specific identity that resonates with the brand. I find it intriguing when someone opts for an unexpected fragrance, much like their unique fashion choices."
“Gabrielle Chanel envisioned transformation — taking the mundane and elevating it to the extraordinary. This philosophy informs every fragrance I create.” — Olivier Polge
"How do you reinterpret a classic like Chanel N°5 to attract a modern audience while preserving its heritage?"
"I focus on style rather than solely legacy and history. Celebrating N°5’s centenary made me realize we’ve evolved in how perfumes are crafted. N°5 possesses a potent identity that allows us to experiment with its composition, as seen with N°5 L’Eau, where traditional elements were presented in a fresh context."
"How do you challenge the parameters of perfume creation at Chanel, and what traditions do you opt to honor?"
"It’s essential to test the limits. Chanel fragrances aren’t confined to particular raw materials, which grants us creative flexibility. Nonetheless, it’s vital that the new creations are significant to the brand and introduce something fresh to our signature."
“Fragrances unfold uniquely on each person; therein lies the magic. It’s about crafting something that feels both personal and universally appealing, just as Chanel intended.” — Olivier Polge
"Can you provide an example of pushing boundaries in a fragrance?"
"One instance is Le Lion de Chanel from the Les Exclusifs line, where I aimed to capture something previously unexplored. This scent is more potent compared to others. Occasionally, connections form with earlier creations, even if unintentional, which is part of the charm."
"When formulating a new fragrance, do you reference past creations or start anew? Have there been instances where you felt a creation wasn’t ready and later revisited it?"
"It really varies. For N°5 L’Eau, I analyzed past formulas to distill its essence. However, with Gabrielle Chanel (the fragrance), I utilized a completely fresh formula. I consistently generate ideas that extend beyond specific projects. At times, I play with combinations of raw materials that can eventually contribute to a fragrance. It’s a continuous exploration of potential scents."
"Are there ingredients in Chanel’s fragrances that captivate you with their versatility, able to feature in different perfumes yet maintain distinct characteristics?"
"Indeed, certain raw materials can behave subtly or change their role. For example, iris is not a dominant element but harmonizes beautifully with woody notes. Flowers play a significant role at Chanel, whether as main or supporting notes, threading through various elements. Some materials, such as gardenia or lily of the valley, possess incredibly strong scents that the industry struggles to extract."
"Considering your background, I assume that fragrances and perfume-making have always surrounded you. When did you realize your passion for perfume creation, and what led you to pursue it?"
"I recognized my passion rather late. Being a perfumer’s son made me resist following his path as a teenager. Instead, I focused on studying art history. One summer during university, I interned in my father’s lab and discovered the allure of this craft."
"Would you say that stepping away from perfume-making provided you with a new perspective upon your return?"
"It became a more intimate journey. It’s similar to witnessing your children grow; you guide them while allowing them to find their own way back if they choose. Fortunately, the door remained open for me."
"After succeeding your father in 2015, did you uncover any surprising aspects about him as a father that you hadn’t seen before while examining his work?"
"I was well-acquainted with his creations before joining Chanel. It’s challenging to separate his professional identity from fatherhood. He didn’t impart perfumery skills directly; rather, he guided me to learn from others. What he instilled in me was the cultivation of my sensibility and taste, indirectly shaping my professional path. I began to appreciate his affinity for patchouli and certain fragrances on a deeper level as I researched his work."
This article was first published in Men’s Folio Singapore.
For more on the latest in luxury beauty and leadership topics, click here.