The term “innovation,” particularly in relation to watchmaking, can often seem contradictory. Given how deeply rooted the luxury watch industry is in traditional craftsmanship and mechanical movements, can we truly call it an “innovation” when someone creates a slightly more efficient method for a fundamentally inefficient device? However, we say this humorously, as we well know that despite the overall inefficiency of our timepieces, there’s an undeniable charm in the conventional techniques employed to assemble our beloved watches. That said, there is certainly potential for improvement within the industry’s framework. With current technology advancing and substantial investment flowing into research and development—even in this niche market—progress is inevitable.
In this edition, we feature Chanel’s J12 Couture Workshop Automaton Calibre 6 on the cover, as it embodies the kind of innovation we are examining within the luxury watch sector. While the automaton movement may not be the pinnacle of technological progress in horology, the overall narrative surrounding Chanel is striking. The brand, which just a few years ago did not have any complications, now offers a jumping hours complication, a tourbillon, and of course, the Automaton calibre—all developed in-house—highlighting the brand’s dedication to high-quality watchmaking. Taking into account their couture roots, the watches emerging from the Watch Creation Studio in Place Vendôme, Paris, are indeed uniquely designed and ideologically innovative, executed flawlessly at the manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds.
Additionally, we delve into the topic of luminescence in watches. In the absence of light, the luminescent material shines brightly. As watch enthusiasts, we often discuss and evaluate lume based on brightness and durability, yet the history of this material rarely surfaces in our conversations. For example, did you know that Super-LumiNova, widely used in timepieces, is Swiss-manufactured but licensed from its original developers, the Japanese firm Nemoto & Co.?
Beyond materials like Super-LumiNova, brands have also experimented with various methods to illuminate watches, including innovative uses of piezoelectric substances and, more recently, tiny electricity generators harnessed from a spring’s unwinding.
Innovation manifests in various forms within the horological field, and it is a subject we will likely revisit in the future. For now, we hope you appreciate the topics we’ve covered in this issue, and until next time, happy reading.
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