Departing TAG Heuer CEO Julien Tornare
Following the typical introductory season at Watches and Wonders Geneva, our team dives deep into evaluating what is most pertinent for both collectors and casual enthusiasts. At the forefront for both groups is the adaptation to a new CEO. If management members are new, there’s also the complex question of how much praise to attribute to them, and where. Alternatively, one must ponder where the criticism should be aimed.
This was certainly the case at TAG Heuer earlier this year when Julien Tornare was confirmed as the new CEO for the brand. We had been eagerly awaiting the opportunity to hear from him in such a role for some time. Rumors about his appointment circulated widely, particularly as Frederic Arnault’s potential rise through the ranks was hinted at. However, this information is now outdated; by the time you read this, Tornare will be taking charge at Hublot, as Antoine Pin, former Managing Director of Watchmaking at Bulgari, steps in as the new CEO of TAG Heuer effective September 1.
Departing TAG Heuer CEO Julien Tornare
This dialogue with Tornare occurred during WWG earlier this year, and we opted not to publish it in the summer issue due to the overwhelming focus on TAG Heuer. This situation actually complicates our narrative since the individual who was supposed to guide us through TAG Heuer’s plans is now steering a different ship at Hublot. Nevertheless, Tornare’s transition from Frederic Arnault at TAG Heuer was seen as a significant acknowledgment of the impressive results he delivered at Zenith. In a year where LVMH’s watch division had scarce highlights, Zenith stood out by managing to weather the storm.
A watch brand is undoubtedly more than any single person, and Tornare was well-known for empowering his team at Le Locle, a practice he will likely uphold in future endeavors. Moreover, Tornare’s insights regarding TAG Heuer’s new offerings this year showcase his distinct professional focus. At the time of our conversation, he had just over 100 days as CEO, and most, if not all, watches would have been under development well before then. This explains why new leaders often steer clear of intricate product details; however, Tornare is not one to shy away.
For instance, Tornare expressed considerable enthusiasm for upcoming launches tied to the Aquaracer, which was not prominently featured in the WWG line-up. He brought it up unsolicited, drawing attention to that challenging inquiry regarding the brand’s future. He was particularly thrilled that the Aquaracer highlighted a unique aspect of TAG Heuer’s heritage, a side we haven’t seen as much. Tornare’s enthusiasm is perhaps blended with a personal desire to explore the brand’s undiscovered elements. This conversation began with a watch we conducted an in-depth analysis of in our previous issue. Regardless, Tornare’s passion for TAG Heuer was evident, and we believe he will carry that same passion to Hublot. He hinted as much during our discussion.
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Skipper
We are thoroughly impressed with the Carrera Skipper this year, which happens to be our Summer issue cover. What are your thoughts on this particular watch in this exquisite version?
I’ve received numerous compliments regarding this watch… it’s challenging because the color interplay between the two counters doesn’t easily allow for adding more hues from exterior elements. Initially, I wasn’t sure about the steel version, but after trying the actual product on my wrist, I now adore it. I believe it’s incredibly elegant, even dressy, coupled with a fantastic narrative surrounding sailing. It has garnered significant popularity at the fair!
Departing TAG Heuer CEO Julien Tornare
Achieving a dressy appearance is no easy task for a sports chronograph! Now, let’s discuss the broader picture: what are your future plans for TAG Heuer? There’s considerable excitement around you, especially seen as you left Zenith in significantly better shape than you found it.
I appreciate your remarks about both the Skipper and my accomplishments at Zenith! The scenarios are entirely different; at Zenith, I was starting from scratch, while at TAG Heuer, my focus is on elevating the brand further. When I joined Zenith, the brand was quite troubled. I had to re-evaluate its essence to adapt to contemporary markets; that is unnecessary at TAG Heuer since that groundwork has already been laid, particularly in recent years. We are heading in the right direction, and my role now is to elevate it further.
Currently, TAG Heuer enjoys strong recognition. The desirability is robust — though there’s room for growth in some markets — but overall, the awareness of the brand is considerable today, bolstered through celebrities, racing, and the brand’s ‘cool’ factor. However, I wish to reinstate the brand’s craft, savoir-faire, heritage, and history that are currently overlooked and often viewed through a narrow lens focused solely on the present. I believe the key to success is maintaining a balance between the brand’s traditions and history and its contemporary approach.
TAG Heuer Monaco Split Seconds Chronograph
Consider the Monaco Rattrapante (unveiled at WWG). People ask me, “Are you venturing back into high watchmaking? How come?” I say, look back at history; TAG Heuer was at the forefront of various aspects of chronograph complications, including stopwatches and the rattrapante in the early 20th century. We have every reason to revisit that legacy. We need to convey this message clearly and help people understand that TAG Heuer is also a premium watchmaker; it’s not solely about volume, accessibility, and coolness. Balancing this perception is crucial for future growth.
TAG Heuer Monaco Split Seconds Chronograph
On that note, we were astonished that TAG Heuer had not featured a split-seconds chronograph in their collection for nearly fifty years! Did this surprise you, and why do you think it took so long?
Yes and no, as I always kept track of TAG Heuer’s evolution from my perspective at Zenith. Therefore, I was aware and understood the necessary actions over time. Developments came together gradually. However, it is evident that TAG Heuer holds a strong legacy in chronographs, and the split-seconds chronograph is embedded in our history; after all, it’s known as the ultimate chronograph complication. We needed to embrace this heritage, and I’m thrilled we have, particularly as my predecessors established collaborations with Vaucher which have significantly positioned our brand accurately. Remember, there are two crucial factors: the split-seconds and the craftsmanship of the movement.
TAG Heuer Formula 1 | Kith
Indeed, it’s vital to consider the finishing. Does this help explain why this watch is priced higher than even the chronograph tourbillon currently in the range?
This is about clarifying that this piece is reasonably priced for what it is, even if it appears costly for a TAG Heuer. However, once you delve into the product details, the value becomes apparent. We’ve discussed this with several journalists; once they grasped the product’s essence, their understanding changed. The situation is similar with our tourbillon, albeit in reverse as it was initially viewed as priced too attractively. When a brand has a specific market position, it becomes challenging to deviate from that range. TAG Heuer has a wide array of options; thus, we may have Formula One watches priced at CHF200, others at CHF2,000, along with the rattrapante and plasma (lab-grown diamonds) models, which are even pricier. We have the luxury to explore these various segments as this aligns with the brand’s identity, aside from the inherent qualities of the products themselves.
On the topic of the rattrapante and other initiatives, TAG Heuer collaborates with various partners, including Kenissi, Porsche, and now Vaucher. Is this part of your future strategy?
For me, this is fantastic because we possess expertise across many domains but not in all. That’s why collaborations become essential. We must partner with the best, and regarding the rattrapante, we had to work with Vaucher, well-known for their high-quality movements. They enable us to achieve a contemporary aesthetic, which was crucial; we didn’t want to create something seen as overly traditional. Their teams collaborated exceptionally well—both sides felt a natural synergy during development phases. This project has been a success, and while I’m not stating we won’t explore others, the collaboration has indeed flowed seamlessly.
Departing TAG Heuer CEO Julien Tornare
I remember discussing the collaboration ethos at Zenith, particularly regarding gathering ideas for improving the company and its products from everyone. Is this an approach you will also implement at TAG Heuer?
Absolutely, as this reflects my philosophy and management style. Each leader has their unique approach. For me, it’s always been about teamwork and fostering an environment conducive to optimal performance. I strongly believe in this, viewing it as one of my strengths—guiding teams to excel collaboratively. Since our initial meeting at WWG for TAG Heuer, I outlined goals and maintained a demanding yet supportive stance, emphasizing enjoyment in our work. I intend for the TAG Heuer booth to showcase the industry’s finest team! This camaraderie is vital, as the atmosphere is often underestimated in its impact. My own experience, especially at Zenith, revealed that team morale can fluctuate; people were initially demoralized but became a formidable unit by the end. I fully intend to replicate this here, despite the different starting circumstances.
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