The Ribeira Sacra, located in the northwesternmost region of Spain, Galicia (Credit: Getty Images), is renowned for its striking, near-vertical vineyards that rise above rivers. This breathtaking landscape—and the outstanding wines produced here—creates a paradise for wine enthusiasts.
The mountains form a mosaic of stone and trees, stretching to the horizon, while below, the river carves through the granite terrain as if it were soft. Observing Sil Canyon from the Cabezoás overlook, towering over 700 meters, I was struck by the awesome force of water (and grateful for the strong beams keeping me safe).
The Ribeira Sacra features dramatic vistas and comprises small towns that primarily line the Sil and Miño rivers. Galicia is often called “green Spain” due to its lush scenery, which results from substantial rainfall compared to the rest of the country. The region’s most remote area is defined by these rivers, with “ribeira sacra” translating as “sacred riverbank” in Galician, paying homage to its topography and extensive monastic history dating back to Roman times.
Navigating this region isn’t simple, with thin, winding roads that twist around hills and pass through groves of chestnuts and oaks. Departing from Cabezoás, I journeyed west to the main monastery of Santo Estevo de Ribas de Sil, nearly 7 km away in a straight line, but much farther by car. Positioned high above the Sil River, Santo Estevo has been exquisitely restored and is part of Spain’s state-run paradores network, typically found in historic buildings. Although officially mentioned in records from the 10th Century, the monastery is considered several centuries older, featuring three cloisters, a church, and monks’ living quarters, leaving me in awe of the construction’s magnitude on a mountain’s edge.
Those monks clearly recognized prime locations, but the miradoiros (viewpoints) I encountered offered their own spiritual encounters. Like Cabezoás, these platforms extend over cliff edges, defying gravity and providing views that might exhilarate or terrify, depending on one’s comfort with heights. The water has sculpted breathtaking green cathedrals, extraordinary compared to even the most impressive human-made structures.
Indeed, the Ribeira Sacra was designated a biosphere reserve in 2022 and is Spain’s submission for Unesco World Heritage status in 2024. The application emphasizes the vital role water plays in this landscape, which has enabled hydroelectric power generation and a lengthy history of milling grains—yet the nearly vertical vineyards along the banks emerge as the focal point.
Winemaking flourished after the Romans and subsequent monastic orders arrived. Mencía is the dominant grape, traditionally used for light, young reds. Increasingly, winemakers are blending in Brancellao, Sousón, and Caíño grapes, while some of these rich, aromatic mixes are aged. Floral whites featuring Godello grapes are also produced. For an extended period, the wine quality here declined due to rural poverty and complex land inheritance issues, but the Ribeira Sacra has gained recognition in recent years, appealing to connoisseurs seeking boutique wines.
The region practices natural sustainability, as no other method would be viable over time. Given the landscape, grape harvesters must pick by hand, transporting heavy crates on their shoulders down steep rows of vines. Some vineyards utilize rails to facilitate transporting grapes in small motorized containers—either uphill to narrow clearing for truck loading or down to the river for boat transport—though this is not feasible for the majority.
How to visit:
The local tourism board offers three complimentary shuttle bus routes with stops near several monasteries, wineries, and city ferry piers. Ferries departing from Monforte de Lemos and Belesar provide tours around the Sil or Miño canyons. Private boat tours with Quinta Sacra or Turismo Pantón can also be arranged, including visits to wineries and other attractions.
Since receiving official status as a wine region in 1996, the Ribeira Sacra has gained the designation of “heroic viticulture” by an Italian nonprofit that advocates for mountainous wine regions worldwide. To achieve this designation, terraced vineyards must be located at a minimum altitude of 500 meters and have a gradient exceeding 30%. When I met winemaker Puri Díaz Ferreiro, she referred to local vineyards as paredes (walls), not surprising, considering the prevalence of 70% slopes. She expressed admiration for the effort required to create these terraces, emphasizing their durability over centuries.
Most wineries here operate as small businesses, like Díaz Ferreiro’s Val do Frade based in A Pobra do Brollón. Working alone, she cultivates grapes on two half-hectare plots, one high above the flourishing ridges by the Sil River. During the harvest season, she enlists extra help to carry grapes to the Adegas de Vilachá complex located 2 km away, producing just 3,000 bottles of young red wine crafted from Mencía annually. Now an ethnographic site, these rustic cellars trace back to medieval times and were used by families for their own winemaking and storage. Daily, communities would trek along a narrow trail to collect enough wine for meals. While the complex contains 42 separate cellars, only 12 are actively used, with Díaz Ferreiro’s being the sole commercial enterprise.
Her vineyards are accessible only on foot from above, although I found the stunning highland scenery captivating. I ventured west to Belesar, seeking the village where I met Martín Martínez. His Ecosacra winery, established in 2020, is known locally as an adega de garda (storage winery) for housing wine made elsewhere in cool, north-facing cellars. His adega, over 300 years old, lay dormant for 14 years before he purchased and revived it, creatively repurposing old barrels into shelves and tables. This inviting rustic structure overlooks the Miño River, featuring an outdoor patio to sample his wines—a white from Godello grapes and a Mencía-dominant red—paired with local cheeses, charcuterie, and homemade empanadas, along with tomatoes, figs, and cherries from his garden.
Tip:
Where to stay: Experience overnight accommodation in a monastery at Santo Estevo, or opt for As Torres da Ermida, a boutique hotel in Monterroso, once the home of an aristocrat.
Where to eat and drink: A wine tasting is included with your tour (Spanish only) at Val do Frade. Ecosacra’s VIP package encompasses a boat ride, wine tasting, and meal. For a sit-down dinner, A Faragulla in Chantada or tapas bars around Rúa Cardenal Rodrigo de Castro in Monforte de Lemos are great options.
To visit Ecosacra, I booked a tour featuring a delightful experience aboard Martínez’s small boat. Gliding past verdant riverbanks reminiscent of Tolkien’s Shire, I marveled at the astonishing vineyards; it was incomprehensible how early grape-growers conceived of farming this rugged region. Yet, the canyon was even more astonishing, evidencing the relentless power of water over geological time.
Ecosacra’s name signifies Martínez’s dedication to conserving natural resources. Similar to Díaz Ferreiro, he employs a low-intervention strategy, maintaining soil health without herbicides or insecticides, and his compact catamaran is the first hybrid passenger vessel in the vicinity. As we conversed, he eagerly shared sightings of otters near his private pier. “I spend most days on the river, yet I never tire of this place. It feels like paradise.”
In summer, the 17 Grados festival showcases the area’s breathtaking landscapes through music (Credit: Mattias Monsterkid). Founded by local event company I-Radia Crea, the festival’s name reflects the vineyards’ minimum degree slope, featuring hillside winery concerts and exclusive events on a catamaran for just 100 participants. Experiencing music while drifting through the Sil Canyon’s towering walls transcends the ordinary, offering both physical and spiritual elevation.
To safeguard the unique characteristics of this region, officials are adopting more conscious strategies, informed by experiences from other Spanish areas grappling with overtourism and local unrest. Promotional materials from the tourism board urge visitors to arrive via RENFE, the national rail service, which stops in Monforte de Lemos, the region’s largest town (population: 18,000). Free hop-on-hop-off minibus shuttles are available to mitigate summer and Holy Week traffic, and the most frequented attractions—like the historical Santa Cristina de Ribas de Sil monastery and the region’s wineries—require advance bookings to control visitor numbers.
Balancing environmental protection with the economic realities of small towns like those in Ribeira Sacra is a daunting challenge, especially as many risk abandonment, similar to other rural regions of Spain. Yet, in a locale where survival relies heavily on nature, a deep-rooted connection to the environment persists, evidenced by locals focused on conserving their heritage. When Díaz Ferreiro began cultivating grapes, her neighbors would share insights about crafting their vineyards.
Initially, she was amazed by their deep understanding of each vine, but she’s now developed that same intimate connection. “I can’t explain it; it’s something you must feel,” she expressed. “We are intertwined with the earth, the plants, and everything surrounding us. I belong to this landscape.”