In a time when stainless steel watches are produced en masse by automated machines, the independent watchmaker Lang & Heyne stands out as a breath of fresh air. Their unique approach? Each watch is handcrafted. Under the guidance of CEO Alexander Gutierrez, German watchmaker Jens Schneider remains dedicated to traditional techniques and timeless designs.
But how do they combine tradition with modernity; how do they merge heritage with innovation? We spoke with Gutierrez and Schneider to explore the essence of Lang & Heyne, the difficulties of establishing a unique identity in a saturated market, and the remarkable artistry behind each watch.
CEO of Lang & Heyne, Alexander Gutierrez
Who is Lang & Heyne for?
ALEXANDER GUTIERREZ: If you appreciate high-quality craftsmanship—be it in handmade vehicles like Morgan or Pagani, or in gourmet cuisine—then you belong to our target audience. Our clientele consists of connoisseurs who are refined rather than ostentatious. They value their possessions for personal enjoyment. If you delight in observing a watch’s movement and winding it by hand, you could potentially fall into our demographic.
What have been some of the most significant challenges you’ve faced as CEO, and how have you overcome them?
ALEXANDER: The main challenge has been articulating the DNA of Lang & Heyne, a relatively young brand at just 21 years. Unlike long-established brands, we lack a substantial history or celebrity endorsements to support us. Therefore, we concentrate on the product itself, highlighting exquisite craftsmanship and in-house manufacturing. Our Saxonian roots are vital, which is why we name our watches after Saxonian kings instead of using model numbers. Merging traditional watchmaking with modern techniques, taking advantage of both handcrafting and contemporary machinery, is essential. Bringing all these elements together to build a successful company is the primary challenge I would say.
The Friedrich III Remontoir Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition
Given the prevalence of contemporary watch designs, why has Lang & Heyne continued its commitment to vintage design elements?
ALEXANDER: We aim to uphold our Saxonian roots and heritage, which is why we persist with vintage design elements. Our focus leans more towards elegance and tradition as opposed to ostentatious, complex features. We prioritise craftsmanship, particularly the artisanal work done by hand, which is core to our brand identity. This integration of vintage design with a modern perspective differentiates us. For instance, the Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition illustrates this fusion with its use of contemporary materials like ceramic while preserving a timeless look.
What are the current trends in the luxury watch market, and how is Lang & Heyne positioning itself to stay ahead?
ALEXANDER: A notable trend in the luxury watch market is the rise of independent watchmakers and unique, niche products. It’s not that major brands are losing significance, but collectors and enthusiasts are increasingly on the lookout for distinctive and exceptional pieces. At Lang & Heyne, we concentrate on artisanal craftsmanship and customisation, allowing clients to personalise aspects like hands, dial colours, and materials. This tailored approach allows us to stand out compared to larger brands that typically cannot provide such bespoke services. By addressing these niche demands, Lang & Heyne is positioning itself as a prominent player in the independent sector.
The Watchmaker
Jens Schneider, watchmaker
Can you walk us through your creative process when designing a new watch?
JENS SCHNEIDER: A Lang & Heyne watch should be one meant for daily use. We aim to create watches that aren’t merely ornamental. Clarity in telling time and ease of winding are crucial starting points. Then, I consider the character of the watch. Following that, I draw upon my memories—elements I’ve observed in historical timepieces and technical solutions—and merge them with my own concepts. You can’t create a wholly new watch; it’s about forming fresh combinations of well-known historical elements with new technologies or materials.
Then, I produce a simple sketch of the gear train. Though it consists solely of circles, their dimensions dictate the correct placement of the hands on the dial. The final phase involves designing the watch in 3D using computer software. This poses challenges because it requires careful consideration of how all components fit together. A change to one part necessitates consideration of its impact on the others. This forms our development process.
How do you balance aesthetics with functionality when designing a new watch?
JENS: A watch that possesses visual appeal but lacks functionality isn’t truly aesthetic. Functionality is paramount. For instance, a small balance wheel positioned in a corner isn’t attractive because it’s not effective. It is all about synergy: function should lead, while aesthetics should enhance that function.
Jens Schneider, watchmaker
How do you integrate modern technology with traditional watchmaking techniques?
JENS: Achieving integration necessitates a solid understanding of materials. For example, utilizing a diamond tool requires blending handcrafting skills with modern materials. Additionally, we employ modern machinery. Nowadays, I utilize Computer Numerical Control (CNC) programs and machines to fabricate the basic parts. For example, the hands of the Louis watch have an age-old design, achieved through hand engraving after the laser-cutting of the raw material.
How do you two collaborate on a project from concept to completion?
JENS: We typically kick things off with a brainstorming session, be it a customer’s idea, a special order, or an internal proposal. We explore the feasibility of the concept, taking both creative and practical ramifications into account because watchmakers can have numerous ideas, but not every one can be executed. We must consider economic or capacity limitations, allowing us to prioritise based on significance and available resources.
ALEXANDER: We frequently engage in customised projects, be it a substantial order from an organization like SHH or a unique piece for an individual. This process requires thorough discussions on design, features, and manufacturing logistics. For example, when a request arises from Sincere Haute Horlogerie for a specific number of watches, we evaluate our capability to meet that volume alongside precise specifications. Throughout the project, there is ongoing communication to fine-tune the design, ensuring it aligns with both our capabilities and the client’s expectations. The success of earlier models such as the first and second Georg has bolstered our confidence in the design’s allure, guiding the project from inception to completion.
This article was originally published on Esquire.Sg
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