DECEMBER 2024: Matthieu Blazy Takes the Helm as Artistic Director of Chanel (Photo: Getty Images)
Fashion is all about transformation, and often, it is designers who challenge the norm. Gabrielle Chanel’s visionary pursuit of freedom for women through fashion led to the incredible rise of her brand, Chanel. In a similar way, Daniel Lee revitalized Bottega Veneta, introducing iconic fringed skirts and It-bags like the Jodie, marking a youthful shift in the renowned Italian company.
This wave of transformation feels particularly significant in 2024, given the recent reshuffles in high-profile fashion roles. These changes usually signal a major shift in a brand’s aesthetic—consider Sabato De Sarno’s minimalist approach at Gucci versus Alessandro Michele’s opulent style, which he is now transferring to Valentino.
Since August, notable creative directors such as Peter Hawkings and Dries Van Noten have surprisingly stepped down from their positions without naming successors. Van Noten has even acknowledged the potential for his successor to diverge from the 38 years of tradition he established, stating in an interview with Business of Fashion’s Tim Blanks, “I absolutely don’t want them to do it my way; they should approach my brand with fresh eyes.”
Chanel and Givenchy find themselves in a similar predicament after Virginie Viard and Matthew M. Williams exited their roles. Given these fashion heavyweights, speculation among insiders regarding potential replacements for Viard and Williams is quite common.
For example, reports from Fashionnetwork suggested John Galliano may be considering moves to Fendi or Chanel—or possibly even a return to Dior—but Maison Margiela has yet to confirm any decisions. Among these brands, Fendi emerges as the most probable next stop for Galliano, especially given his past controversies.
Interestingly, Maison Margiela is conspicuously absent from the lineup of upcoming Spring/Summer 2025 shows, although it has scheduled an event for late September.
In other developments, Hedi Slimane of Celine—renowned for his sleek silhouettes and rock’n’roll influences—is again rumored to be on the list for Chanel’s top spot, as noted by prominent publications like W and Highsnobiety. Similar speculation surrounded him when he departed Saint Laurent in 2016.
Galliano and Slimane aren’t the only directors under scrutiny; Loewe’s Jonathan Anderson is also in the spotlight, with multiple sources suggesting he might leave for Gucci, although this has not been officially verified.
Meanwhile, other fashion houses have established greater certainty with new creative directors stepping in. Stay tuned for updates on confirmed leadership shifts across various brands.
Matthieu Blazy Joins Chanel
Matthieu Blazy has been appointed the new artistic director of Chanel. Beginning in 2025, Blazy will manage Chanel’s haute couture, ready-to-wear, and accessories lines.
“I am completely excited and honored to join the incredible House of Chanel,” the French designer stated. “I can’t wait to meet all the teams and co-write this new chapter.”
Blazy takes over from Virginie Viard, who left Chanel in June 2024. Viard, having served as Karl Lagerfeld’s right-hand partner for over two decades, was appointed artistic director in 2019 following Lagerfeld’s passing. Blazy’s selection comes after months of speculation within the fashion community regarding who would lead Chanel.
Blazy’s credentials are compelling; he launched his career designing for Raf Simons’s signature label before joining Maison Margiela, where he supervised Artisanal haute couture and ready-to-wear lines. He also collaborated with Phoebe Philo at Céline and re-teamed with Raf Simons at Calvin Klein, where he was the design director. In 2021, Blazy became the creative director of Bottega Veneta after Daniel Lee, gaining acclaim for his vibrant collections exploring color, texture, and fabric.
Chanel’s president, Bruno Pavlovsky, endorsed Blazy: “I am thrilled to welcome Matthieu Blazy. I believe he will engage with the codes and legacy of the House via continuous collaboration with the Studio, our Ateliers, and our Maisons d’art. His bold personality and innovative, impactful creative vision, along with his dedication to craftsmanship and premium materials, will propel Chanel into exciting new territories.”
The date for Blazy’s inaugural Chanel fashion show is yet to be disclosed.
Julian Klausner Takes Over at Dries Van Noten
Julian Klausner has been appointed as the new creative director of Dries Van Noten. The brand’s founder expresses “complete trust in Julian’s creativity and vision.”
“He is not only a gifted designer, but also the ideal successor after my departure,” stated Van Noten, who stepped down and announced his retirement from fashion in March 2024. “His profound understanding of the brand and its ethos will guarantee a smooth transition and a positive future.”
Klausner, who became familiar with Dries Van Noten after interning at Thom Browne and Maison Margiela, joined the Belgian brand in 2018, collaborating with Dries on women’s collections. He was also a member of the studio team that showcased Dries Van Noten’s mesmerizing Spring/Summer 2025 womenswear collection in September.
What lies ahead? As creative director, Klausner will oversee both women’s and men’s fashion while remaining true to the brand’s esteemed identity. He plans to present the Dries Van Noten Fall/Winter 2025 men’s line in January 2025 through a lookbook, followed by his first runway exposition for the Fall/Winter 2025 women’s collection during Paris Fashion Week in March.
“I am incredibly excited to guide the upcoming seasons as we turn the page on this chapter for the house,” Klausner noted. “The remarkable legacy Dries leaves behind is monumental, providing endless inspiration. I can’t wait to embark on ambitious new endeavors while honoring the heritage we all value.”
Peter Do Exits Helmut Lang
Peter Do is leaving his role as Helmut Lang’s creative director, as stated by the New York fashion label. Do joined Helmut Lang in 2023 and revealed two runway collections. His final work for the brand will be the Spring/Summer 2025 line, previewed on his Instagram. Following his exit, the Vietnamese-American designer plans to focus on his own label, Peter Do.
Phillip Lim Departs 3.1 Phillip Lim
Coinciding with Do’s announcement, Phillip Lim revealed he will leave his role as creative director of 3.1 Phillip Lim, a label he co-founded in 2005. His Spring/Summer 2025 collection, unveiled at New York Fashion Week in September, will mark his last. Lim hinted at a “new story” in his career on Instagram.
Kim Jones Exits Fendi
Kim Jones is leaving Fendi.
The designer is stepping down as the artistic director of women’s wear and couture. Jones took the reins of the Italian luxury brand in 2020, succeeding Karl Lagerfeld while already making a mark as Dior Men’s artistic director, a role he continues to hold.
Since 2020, Jones has presented a modern interpretation of the Fendi woman, deeply rooted in the label’s heritage. He initiated notable collaborations with Versace (known as “Fendace”), Kim Kardashian’s Skims, and Marc Jacobs, who celebrated the 25th anniversary of the Fendi Baguette.
As for his latest collection—Spring/Summer 2025—Jones revisited the brand’s origins from 1925, drawing inspiration from that era’s cultural landscape. The collection displayed sheer flapper dresses and silk slips with fringe, crystals, and Art Deco embroidery.
Fendi will announce Jones’s successor “in due course,” according to a brand statement.
Michael Rider Named New Creative Director of Celine
Michael Rider has been appointed as the new artistic director of Celine, succeeding Hedi Slimane. Starting in early 2025, he will lead the French brand’s womenswear, menswear, leather goods, accessories, and couture.
Rider previously served as the creative director of Polo Ralph Lauren but is remembered by Philophiles as the design director of Celine during Phoebe Philo’s commanding presence at the label. He held that role for a decade and worked alongside Nicolas Ghesquière at Balenciaga before that.
“Celine embodies values that are very dear to me and has a beautiful legacy to progress,” Rider stated. “I am privileged to return and shape the future of the maison alongside the Celine team.”
Hedi Slimane’s Departure from Celine
Hedi Slimane is parting ways with Celine. The news was shared in a statement from LVMH, which owns the French fashion house. Slimane had been the artistic, creative, and imaging director of Celine since February 2018.
“Under his creative leadership, Celine has seen immense growth and has solidified its status as an iconic French couture house,” LVMH said. “Slimane’s holistic vision and rigorous standards have successfully redefined Celine’s codes while reaffirming its feminine and Parisian essence. His expansion into new realms such as menswear, couture, and haute parfumerie has left an indelible mark over the last seven years, providing a strong foundation for Celine’s future.”
No information has surfaced yet regarding Slimane’s next venture. Previously, he made considerable impacts at Saint Laurent and Dior Homme. At Paris Fashion Week, he unveiled Celine’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection, featuring tweed ensembles, which led to speculation among insiders that he might be heading to Chanel, now searching for a new creative director.
Sarah Burton Takes the Lead at Givenchy
One of New York Fashion Week’s standout announcements? Sarah Burton is the new creative director of Givenchy.
Burton follows Matthew M. Williams, who departed the French luxury fashion house in January 2024.
The former creative director at Alexander McQueen and longtime collaborator with the late Lee McQueen, Burton spearheaded Alexander McQueen from 2010 to 2023, designing the famed royal wedding dress for Kate Middleton, Princess of Wales. The British designer was also honored with an OBE for her contributions to British fashion.
Burton’s first collection for Givenchy will be unveiled during Paris Fashion Week in March 2025, overseeing both men’s and women’s lines.
“It’s a tremendous privilege to join Givenchy, a true jewel in fashion,” Burton shared with WWD. “I am greatly excited to shape the next chapter of this iconic house, bringing my own vision and sensibilities.”
Haider Ackermann Takes Over from Peter Hawkings at Tom Ford
Haider Ackermann has been appointed as the new creative director of Tom Ford.
He replaces Peter Hawkings, who led the American luxury brand for just a year and resigned in July 2024.
“It is with overwhelming pride that I carry forward the legacy of Tom Ford, a figure for whom I have immense admiration," said Ackermann, who previously directed Berluti. “I eagerly anticipate what the future holds.”
Tom Ford expressed his enthusiastic support, stating, “I have always been a great admirer of Haider’s work; I find his womenswear and menswear equally fascinating. He has an exceptional eye for color, sharp tailoring, and a modern sensibility. We share numerous historical references, and I couldn’t be more excited to see his vision for the brand.”
Ackermann will showcase his debut collection during Paris Fashion Week in March 2025. "I suspect I’ll be the first to applaud after his show,” Ford noted. Like Ford, Ackermann has a star-studded appeal, with his designs donned by A-listers including Timothée Chalamet, Tilda Swinton, and Kylie Jenner.
David Koma Joins Blumarine
Earlier this week, Blumarine announced David Koma as its new creative director following Walter Chiapponi’s departure in March. This decision is unexpected yet not surprising, given the designer’s recognition for creating slinky pieces that have become celebrity favorites, aligning closely with Blumarine’s aesthetics.
Veronica Leoni Enters Calvin Klein
Veronica Leoni at Calvin Klein seems like a natural fit. Prior to Calvin Klein, the Italian designer honed her skills at The Row and Phoebe Philo’s Céline, both known for their refined, wearable basics, before launching her brand, Quira. Anticipate a collection of tailored, minimal pieces on Calvin Klein’s Fall/Winter 2025 runway next March.
Paul Andrew Is Named Creative Director of Sergio Rossi
Paul Andrew, who formerly worked at Alexander McQueen and Ferragamo, has been appointed as Sergio Rossi’s creative director. Andrew also runs his own label, Paul Andrew.
This article was initially published by Nicole Ng on August 5, 2024. It was last updated on December 13, 2024, with additional reporting by Pameyla Cambe.
This piece first appeared in Grazia Singapore.
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