The Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold Lumen showcasing its features for night-time visibility.
When creating the annual Legacy issue, we are heavily influenced by tradition. This is as expected as discovering sand on a beach. The Legacy issue serves as our thorough exploration of horological histories and standards, encompassing practices and key figures in the industry. Tradition undoubtedly plays a pivotal role. Sometimes, this concept assumes unexpected significance or, as some philosopher has suggested, becomes meta. Here, we’re not implying transcendence, but rather that some narratives evolve into a tradition surrounding tradition itself, all curated within a tradition-focused issue.
If we chose, for instance, we could frame this very interview with A. Lange & Söhne CEO Wilhelm Schmid as a storytelling piece about interviews, referencing previous interviews with him and other figures at the company (such as Tony de Haas and Tino Bobe). As previously mentioned, these three typically represent A. Lange & Söhne in the media, and we’ve conducted interviews with at least one of them annually since 2019. You may wonder what makes this so ‘meta’. Well, it connects to a similar theme we explored in an older piece where we explicitly acknowledged the existence of this pattern. That which is meta can indeed be beneficial—consider meta-analysis, which compiles individual studies to provide new insights—and we want to adopt this lens for our A. Lange & Söhne narratives.
A significant example is our conversation with Schmid two years prior in Singapore, where he advised against holding our breath if we hoped to purchase a Lange 1 at that time. When we met again this year at Watches and Wonders Geneva, Schmid remarked on improvements, partly due to the brand’s initiatives aimed at transitioning its operations to its own retail channels. However, he cautioned that conditions remain far from perfect.
“Our strategy is to enhance our capacity, as we will require increased output across different watch segments,”
This dialogue only occurred this year because of our prior discussions last year, likely influenced by the consistent individuals involved; it’s hard not to notice that I conduct the overwhelming majority of all interviews. Regarding the point about availability, Schmid reiterated that the Glashütte brand continues to produce approximately 5,000 watches. This figure has been widely referenced in our publications and other platforms for years. De Haas supports this by asserting that increasing production of one model necessitates a decrease in another. When queried about this, Schmid acknowledged this with a wise nod. “When we unveil something new, adjustments must be made to existing models. Simply adding more references atop the existing collection (without careful pruning) is neither feasible nor advisable because ultimately, who will manufacture all these watches?” Schmid remarked, with the slightest of shrugs.
From all our meetings with him, we recognize Schmid as a serious and empathetic figure. He would never take risks that could jeopardize A. Lange & Söhne. Fortunately, you don’t have to only trust our word for this. Uniquely among his Richemont counterparts (given that A. Lange & Söhne belongs to Richemont), Schmid, de Haas, and Bobe have a long history with the brand. The latter two, alongside communications director Arnd Einhorn, have been integral to A. Lange & Söhne since its inception (collectively). These gentlemen would not remain allied with Schmid if he were not the straightforward leader he appears to be. Schmid also wouldn’t have lasted this long (having assumed the CEO role in 2011) if he hadn’t been a positive influence for A. Lange & Söhne.
Of course, we are aware that perceptions regarding A. Lange & Söhne and Schmid have significantly shifted over the past five years, as the brand’s watches have become more difficult to obtain, reflected in rising prices. The individual at the helm possesses answers to these inquiries, largely reiterating that A. Lange & Söhne is not aiming to increase production simply for growth’s sake.
“Our strategy is to boost our capacity because we will need the increased capabilities in different watch segments,” Schmid stated. “This entails enhancing the amount of watchmaking hours dedicated to each timepiece. Growth will stem from introducing greater complexity into our range, rather than through raising production quantities.”
With this, we invite you to engage with our dialogue featuring Schmid and stay tuned for a crucial update regarding the Odysseus Chronograph.
The Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold Lumen and the Datograph Up/Down (on the right) are both part of the Saxonia collection.
This year marks the 25th anniversary of the Datograph, and you are unveiling two very special timepieces to celebrate this milestone. As these are, if we may say, variations on a theme, how have they been received so far (at WWG)?
Let me start with the Datograph Up/Down – it features a white gold case paired with a blue dial; this combination has never before been utilized. Keep in mind, our clientele comprises watch collectors, so they continuously seek items they don’t already possess (including the previous limited edition with a blue dial). That particular piece is unavailable since we never replicated it. For this limited edition Datograph Up/Down, we plan to produce a slightly larger batch – producing 125 of them is substantial for us, while for many brands, that figure is rather small.
Next is the Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold Lumen, which boasts two desirable features: unique materials and a new calibre. Naturally, the calibre shares many elements with something that collectors know well. Please share with us the distinctions here.
First, indeed, the calibre is an iteration of the existing one (which debuted in 2016), but we had to undertake significant modifications for the revised version. For instance, we completely reorganized the moon phase indicator (which might not be immediately noticeable) and omitted the power reserve display.
(The discourse then delved into technical specifics, thus we provide the formal response from A. Lange & Söhne regarding this matter, taken from the FAQ concerning the Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold Lumen. We present the details below as communicated to us.)
Why does the movement comprise 684 components compared to the standard version’s 729 components? The further development of the movement has also resulted in a decrease in the total parts count. For instance, eliminating the power-reserve indicator reduces the number of components, whereas the additional parts needed for the “Lumen” functionality do not balance out this reduction.
Is the movement a new edition compared to the existing Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon? Yes, due to the exclusive design aspects of a “Lumen” model and the exclusion of a power-reserve indicator, the movement has seen significant enhancements.
This means it’s not merely the same movement but with lumen added. Unfortunately, that approach wouldn’t suffice. When you compare the Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold Lumen to all the chronographs (standard datographs), tourbillons, perpetual calendars, and honeygold (limited editions), this singular timepiece encapsulates everything.
A. Lange & Söhne CEO Wilhelm Schmid.
Regarding gold, let’s address a few points – first, does this hint at your future direction?
We have clarity in our direction. We maintain five traditional watch families alongside one that presents a modern aesthetic. Primarily, we focus on very classic horology; we introduced the Odysseus line in 2019 (to explore different concepts). The main reason was to create a space for experimenting with steel… whether exploring titanium or combining white gold with rubber – those are options available in the Odysseus collection. Annually, we produce only a very limited number of steel watches—not even reaching the hundreds. The other five families remain untouched by this contemporary experimentation. Thus, we can broaden our design scope slightly without compromising our brand’s essence and safeguard those five esteemed families that have consistently been part of our identity. Steel and other non-precious materials do not form our core business; we specialize in precious metals like white gold, platinum, yellow gold, and honeygold.
Now regarding honeygold, which we always approach with excitement! Can we expect more timepieces crafted from this material? It is among the rare precious materials that offer practical benefits along with aesthetic ones.
Yes, however, honeygold will primarily be reserved for limited editions, and we have never produced many of these—about 2,000 in total since its introduction in 2000. Its hardness makes it quite challenging to work with; it requires special care, and even during servicing, it necessitates particular handling. While its hardness offers wearers an advantage, it also presents challenges in the production process. Honeygold is difficult to machine because of its hardness (compared to normal gold) and demands specific tools and procedures. Consequently, few can work with it effectively, and one should be prudent regarding how many pieces to produce. Manufacturing thousands would necessitate servicing thousands, with refurbishing the case also requiring an oxygen-free environment. Increasing production beyond our current capacity is simply not sustainable.
The new watches introduced this year are both boutique editions, yet A. Lange & Söhne can predominantly be found only in your boutiques. Can you update us on the progress of transitioning your retail business in-house and its effects on availability and accessibility?
We are approximately 90 percent transitioned to our own boutiques globally. However, this doesn’t imply we simply halted relationships with our retail partners overnight. We have had excellent long-term relationships with them, and the transition takes time. We must consider the customers linked to each retailer, and we strive to honor any commitments made on our behalf to them. We are currently navigating that process; however, having significantly reduced our external retail network, I can assure you there is now a better level of availability at the boutiques. It is not flawless, but it is certainly an improvement compared to 18 months ago… or even six months ago! We anticipate the full impact of our strategy will unfold over the next 18 months.
A view of the dial showcasing the calibre L952.4 powering the Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold Lumen.
Yes, there is a process, even a systematic approach, because I dislike things lacking organization. You might receive such inquiries from people unfamiliar with us; otherwise, they would know how it works! It all begins with making connections at the boutique. I often find these situations amusing… To generate friendship, one doesn’t just yell “I want a friend!” and expect someone to appear. In our personal lives, we all understand the dynamics of making friends and forging relationships, which requires individuals to get acquainted and establish trust. It goes beyond mere transactions. In the watch industry, some individuals seek to acquire the rarest watches instantaneously. They complain frequently, and we all have a good sense of their intentions with the watches once they possess them.
Has the situation improved regarding flippers?
Certainly! We have gained insight into who is acquiring our watches now. While anyone can do as they please with their belongings—that isn’t our decision—we aim to discern whether a visitor at the boutique is a genuine collector, which is our core market. Alternatively, we consider whether they are simply buying with intentions to resell quickly. We can manage that ourselves; a middleman is unnecessary. You also inquired about individuals seeking just one exceptional watch from us. We are open to fulfilling that request, but those looking for one piece for a single occasion aren’t our target demographic. We focus on collectors who appreciate watches! They explore our collections to discover what they favor and gradually develop their own collections. This journey extends beyond one year into multiple years! Thus, we must present new offerings each year… that’s why we consistently strive for excellence (at all times) because collectors are incredibly discerning individuals.
To conclude our discussion on availability and production, can you provide an update on the Odysseus Chronograph, which Tony indicated would move into production this year?
Yes, that is indeed the case… It has transitioned from the prototyping phase to manufacturing, but it will require more time than is usual (for standard chronographs at A. Lange & Söhne) because this represents a new domain for our watchmakers, as Tony has mentioned. This calibre has no existing reference; therefore, it’s essentially being constructed from the ground up. The watchmakers still require practice and experience to establish procedures for the automatic chronograph.
The Lange 1 Moon Phase and Little Lange 1 Moon Phase, both crafted in pink gold. Sending season’s greetings from A. Lange & Söhne!
This article originally appeared in WOW’s Legacy 2025 Issue.
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