The fast fashion industry, valued at USD 136 billion in 2024, projects to grow to USD 184 billion by 2027. However, this growth comes with serious implications. Its operational model focuses on the rapid production of inexpensive, seasonal clothing, which leads to both overproduction and overconsumption. Greenpeace reports that approximately 100 billion garments are manufactured annually, resulting in 92 million tonnes ending up in landfills. Consequently, the world is saturated with excess clothing, generating immense waste and adversely affecting global economies and environments.
The Evolution of Fast Fashion
Though it is now widely recognized as a global trend, fast fashion only gained mainstream popularity after the establishment of Zara. Founded by businessman Amancio Ortega in 1975, this Spanish retailer provided lower-cost alternatives to premium clothing. In the 1980s, Ortega accelerated the design-to-retail process to just five weeks, an unprecedented speed at that time.
Ortega’s innovative business approach transformed the fashion landscape, prompting brands like H&M and Mango to adopt similar manufacturing-to-retail strategies. The pandemic further fueled fast fashion’s rise, alongside social media-driven microtrends, causing e-commerce platforms like Shein and Temu to take affordability and speed to unprecedented levels.
Initially aimed at streamlining clothing production, fast fashion has expanded beyond retail, fostering what Vox described as a “disposable society.”
An Unsustainable Supply Chain
Maintaining low clothing prices significantly impacts the entire fast fashion supply chain. Labor and manufacturing processes often disregard quality control and resource conservation. This year, Shein faced accusations of labor exploitation, with a report by Swiss human rights group Public Eye revealing that factory workers for Shein suppliers in Guangzhou were working 75-hour weeks. The investigation also disclosed that many employees were compensated below China’s living wage, which is approximately RMB 6,500.
Environmentally, fast fashion has a significant negative impact. The colossal volume of clothing produced necessitates vast amounts of materials, electricity, and water. A study published in the science journal Nature indicated the industry generates 92 million tonnes of waste and consumes 79 trillion liters of water. Shein, named the fashion industry’s leading polluter in 2023 by Yale University, emitted approximately 16.7 million tonnes of carbon emissions that year.
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The Role of Consumers
Not all responsibility lies with the industry’s production practices. The rise of influencer culture and social media trends has facilitated consumers getting swept up in the thrill of trendy new products. Items that go viral are often purchased en masse, leading to overwhelming demand. However, trends can fade quickly, resulting in a “buy now, wear once” mentality. A Guardian article this year noted that of the 100 billion garments produced annually, 10 to 40 percent remain unsold.
This could signal a potential shift in consumer behavior. In 2023, the “de-influencing” trend surfaced on TikTok, where users deterred each other from making impulsive purchases. Thrifting and upcycling old clothing have also become popular themes on social media, especially among Gen Z. While these moves are commendable, they may be occurring too late.
Beyond Fast Fashion
Textile pollution on a beach in Freetown, Sierra Leone.
Fast fashion’s issues with waste and overproduction are apparent, but its pervasive and far-reaching consequences are less obvious. The overwhelming quantity of fast fashion apparel not only leads to landfills but also affects thrift shops, undermining the global clothing industry ecosystem.
Although donating clothes is often viewed as a responsible action, it has become a convenient way for consumers to dispose of their surplus. Organizations like the Salvation Army struggle to manage the influx of donated clothing. Due to the subpar quality of fast fashion items, most of these donations remain unsold. GQ reports that only about 10 to 30 percent of donated clothing is resold, with the rest sent to the Global South.
Accra, Ghana, harbors one of the world’s most polluted waterways, not from local sources but due to imported secondhand clothing from Western nations. The Guardian reports that approximately 15 million clothing items are imported weekly, many of which accumulate along the coastline. Stains and tattered garments pile up, and some communities have constructed homes atop the waste. This issue has become so prevalent that locals refer to it as “broni wawu,” translating to “dead white man’s clothes.” Earth.Org estimates that nearly 10 percent of annual microplastics in the ocean originate from textiles.
Ghana faces not only physical pollution but also economic repercussions. Its once-thriving local textile sector declined in the 1990s when it began accepting secondhand clothing imports from the United States, Europe, and China. Although reported by AP News, efforts by several African nations to prohibit such imports have had minimal impact.
Read More: Beyond Glamour: Sustainability, Style, and Tech in 2024
Is There a Solution?
The fashion industry has been striving for “sustainability” for years, although achieving it is easier said than done. According to the World Economic Forum, 98 percent of CEOs view sustainability and profitability as mutually exclusive; one cannot coexist with the other.
Within the fashion sector, prominent brands are increasingly turning to technology for solutions. British designer Stella McCartney was honored with an Order of the British Empire for her commitment to sustainability. Since its inception in 2001, her brand has gradually eliminated PVC materials and now operates using 100 percent renewable energy at its flagship store in London. A recent Forbes article suggests that fast fashion retailers utilize AI to “predict product quantities” to better prevent overproduction.
Nevertheless, the biggest challenge lies in altering societal behaviors. Fast fashion often thrives during economic downturns due to its affordability. At the same time, relentless social media advertising compels consumers to keep purchasing. Reforming a system that prioritizes profits over people and the planet is essential, as it involves more than just encouraging consumers to re-wear items or reduce purchases.
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