Christophe Valtaud, the renowned Cellar Master at Martell, spearheads the effort to safeguard and innovate the legacy of one of France’s oldest Cognac houses. With a foundation in science and a profound dedication to craftsmanship, Valtaud is redefining tradition while securing Martell’s future within a competitive luxury landscape. Growing up in the Cognac region within a family of growers, Valtaud recognized early on that the luxury and quality of Cognac arise from the terroir—the unique soil and limited area where grapes are grown. He soon appreciated that the profound connection to nature and the expertise passed down through generations is what distinguishes Cognac as truly remarkable.
In an exclusive conversation with LUXUO, he reveals his distinctive approach to cognac production, the hurdles of modernization, the launch of Martell’s private cask program, Les Futs Uniques de Martell, and his aspirations for the brand’s future. Seated to his left is Martell’s Senior Master Blender Christian Guerin, and to his right is Chris Maloney, Global Head of Prestige Delivery at Pernod Ricard.
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As Martell’s Cellar Master, can you share how you developed your expertise in terroir, distillation, and blending?
Becoming a Cellar Master is a lengthy process, typically requiring about ten years of training. I’m from the Cognac region, with a family legacy of grape cultivation spanning generations. Holding the title of Cellar Master entails inheriting this vast knowledge. From my initial training, I learned the significance of terroir, distillation, and their roles in creating the end product. Additionally, I am a distiller and honed my skills at an early age via our family vineyard. This is where we distill all the attributes of the wine, followed by blending and aging.
The Cellar Master is the sole position within the company overseeing the entire process from vine to glass. My role is to guarantee quality throughout every phase, starting from collaborating with the producers to selecting the finest liquids for future creations. I am always thinking decades ahead—at least 40 years into the future. When developing new collections or products, long-term planning is paramount since what I make today will be utilized in products many years down the line. My duty is not solely to preserve this legacy but also to prepare the future by ensuring the upcoming generation of liquids is ready for crafting exceptional Cognacs.
As the ninth-generation Martell Cellar Master, what challenges have you faced in maintaining the traditions of cognac-making amidst a rapidly changing market?
As the ninth-generation Martell Cellar Master, my primary focus has always been on future preparation—not just for me, but for the next generation. Early in my career, I recognized that my role extended beyond selecting a successor; it was about fostering an environment where multiple individuals could step into that leadership role. My team expanded from three members when I started to eight today, reflecting our strategy to preserve Martell’s traditions while readying ourselves for the future.
A significant challenge has been balancing tradition with the swiftly changing market. Becoming a master blender or cellar master requires extensive experience—often over a decade—and it’s essential to hold a long-term view. I have endeavored to create a collaborative environment, unlike my predecessor who worked in isolation. I am convinced that promoting teamwork and sharing knowledge is vital to continue the legacy of Cognac-making while adapting to modern requirements.
What distinguishes me is my scientific education—I hold a PhD in biochemistry and molecular biology—which offers me a unique perspective. I am not merely interested in upholding tradition for its own sake. My aim is to push the limits and look forward. I have created products that challenge traditional AOC regulations for Cognac; I see it as my duty as a leader to anticipate trends and develop new experiences, akin to how the iPhone was designed before people recognized they needed it. In this manner, I strive to create the future rather than react to it.
How does Martell set itself apart in a competitive luxury spirits market?
Martell, the oldest major Cognac house, prides itself on being a pioneer in the industry. We essentially established Cognac as it is recognized today. From the outset, we defined our unique style, and while others have had to carve out their specific methods, we were first. Our style has remained consistent since the beginning, and that is Martell’s legacy, which we continue to honor.
From a technical standpoint, Martell is noted for utilizing the complete array of terroirs, yet our signature Cognac is primarily shaped by a particular area—the Borderies. It’s the smallest and rarest growing region, adding remarkable smoothness to our Cognac. In comparison to others, Martell Cognac is famously smooth, devoid of the bitterness that can occasionally surface in other blends.
In terms of flavor profiles, have you observed any trends in consumer preferences?
Taste continues to evolve, and that’s why we adapt. A significant component of our distinctive flavor comes from the oak used in aging. We select only the finest French oak—specifically the Faucher oak—known for its exceptional quality. This choice is critical because superior ingredients yield superior products. Unlike many producers who use Limousin oak—which matures over 100-120 years—our Faucher oak requires a minimum of 180 to 200 years to reach full maturity. This extended growth period allows the wood to impart a more refined, subtle influence on the Cognac.
A few years back, we introduced a new VSOP in Singapore and across Asia. This was in response to shifting consumer trends, as more individuals are moving away from bitterness. To adapt, we decreased the wood’s influence, as the bitterness that can arise from wood is less favored. This change parallels shifts we notice in the wine sector as well.
At Martell, the passage of time is everything. From aging to barrel selection, we manage the flow of time in every drop of our Cognac. With over 300 years of craftsmanship under our belt, it’s this vast experience, alongside our premium ingredients, that establishes Martel as an extraordinary brand.
Let’s discuss Martell’s new private cask program — Les Futs Uniques de Martell. How has this program influenced Martell’s overarching brand strategy?
The concept behind this collection is to reconnect with Cognac’s roots. For over two centuries, Martell has sold Cognac in casks, and this collection revives that tradition. The distinctive aspect is that consumers can buy Cognac still aging in casks—something not accessible for over a century. Moreover, this pure, unblended Cognac represents a return to how Martell first crafted its spirits, contrasting with today’s blending practices.
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This collection pays homage to our history, emphasizing the significance of terroir and how different soils yield unique flavors. It offers a journey through Martell’s legacy while introducing an element of boldness. We aspire to provide a thoroughly immersive experience at Château de Chanteloup, where guests can select and personalize their casks. The experience also includes a culinary journey with Michelin-starred chefs to enhance the enjoyment of Martell Cognac, ensuring optimal pairings. Overall, this collection aims to deliver an exceptional and deeply personal experience for our consumers.
Les Fûts Uniques – GC 32 YO 46ABV
How do you perceive this program addressing modern consumer demands for personalized experiences?
Luxury often revolves around exclusivity—everyone yearns for luxury goods, though not everyone has the means. For those unable to afford them, we offer special editions, permitting them to embrace the brand’s essence. Martell is celebrated for its Cognac, particularly for its exclusivity, boasting the oldest and most prestigious stock of eaux-de-vie. We have meticulously safeguarded this exceptional inventory, reserved in our cellars for years. This legacy grants us the authority to develop such a collection.
Though only a select few can purchase these rare offerings, we also present a range that permits consumers to be part of the legacy, enjoying the same expertise and craftsmanship, albeit in a different guise. It might not be the most prestigious alternative, but it remains a part of Martell’s rich heritage, ensuring that everyone can connect with a segment of this exceptional legacy.
How essential is legacy storytelling in conveying the value of Martell and Les Futs Uniques de Martel to consumers?
In crafting Cognac, I strive to evoke emotions through all senses. I often listen to music during the creation process—classical for traditional Cognac, and rock or rap for younger blends. The focus is on engaging the senses: sight, sound, and touch. My goal is to establish a connection through emotion rather than just technicality. While we frequently concentrate on detailing the technical aspects of Cognac, I contend that emotions are universal. For instance, when presenting Cognac, I emphasize the sentiments it elicits rather than the technical details, as emotions can resonate universally, transcending culture or language.
In the spirits industry, how do you harmonize traditional craftsmanship with contemporary production methods?
As a researcher, I lead a team of cellar masters, master blenders, and researchers in the creation and aging of Cognac. We’re also adapting to climate change by developing new distillation techniques, creating grape varieties that suit changing conditions, and updating our warehouses for resilience. While preserving the unique qualities of our terroir, we must innovate for sustainability. Cognac production is highly regulated, and altering distillation practices requires convincing others that it won’t detract from the product’s quality. I’ve dedicated years to exploring alternatives to conventional energy sources, demonstrating their negligible impact on taste.
While innovation is vital, cognac production remains closely regulated, especially concerning distillation, which is one of the most stringently controlled processes in the spirits sector. Unlike whisky, where there’s greater flexibility, we operate under strict guidelines. Changing production techniques requires persuading colleagues and competitors that these adjustments won’t undermine the final product’s quality. Transitioning from gas-powered distillation to sustainable energy sources, for instance, necessitated five years of proving that it wouldn’t alter flavor. It’s about striking a balance between tradition and the necessity for sustainability, ensuring that cognac production can progress while upholding the highest standards.
Les Fûts Uniques – GC 30 YO
You oversee the production and maturation of eau-de-vie. What significance does sustainability hold in your production methods?
We’ve revamped our vineyard management approaches to reduce environmental impact. We have fully adopted biodiversity measures and discontinued chemical use. This approach is core to us because our CEO often emphasizes that we’re producing products for future generations’ enjoyment. When tasting a cognac like the Cordon Bleu—which is at least ten years old but often closer to 20 or 25 years old—you recognize the necessity for decades-long planning. Consumer expectations will invariably rise, so if we narrow our focus solely on current demands, we might overlook future requirements.
This is why we’ve committed to sustainability and environmental responsibility for an extended period. Our link to our terroir is profound, and given that Cognac is a natural product, we bear the responsibility of safeguarding it for generations to come.
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On a personal level, what achievement at Martell are you most proud of?
I’m immensely proud of my accomplishments, especially in constructing a team that previously didn’t exist. Before my tenure, Martell lacked a dedicated R&D department, but now we have a team of researchers—not solely Cognac experts—who collaborate with our traditional specialists. Merging innovation with tradition yields extraordinarily unique results.
I envision this collaborative model, fusing research with legacy, as my enduring contribution to Martell. I’ve also always aspired to infuse an artistic element into my creations. For me, emotion is paramount—every drop of Cognac should stir a feeling. I aim to transcend the conventional and spark dreams through nuances such as music, colors, art, and even culinary experiences. It’s all about crafting something that resonates deeply with the spirit.
Maison Martell has reiterated its commitment to preserving local heritage at the core of the House. How do your personal values align with Martell’s mission?
To me, Cognac is unequivocally French and embodies the French art de vivre. However, it’s essential to recognize that while our roots are in France, our founder was British. From the very start, Martell has represented a blend of cultures, which is a vital aspect of our identity. The inaugural shipment to Singapore was in 1868, establishing a long-standing connection with Asia.
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Singapore has evolved into a crossroads where various world cultures converge, which is remarkable for us. It enables us to be attuned to the desires and trends of diverse cultures while preparing for the future. Regarding sustainability and responsibility, I see Singapore as the ideal platform to solidify these ideals. Thus, its status as the center of our strategy for Asia aligns perfectly with the vision we have for the future.
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