Photo: Buccellati
Many of the globe’s most prestigious jewelry brands, including Bvlgari and Buccellati, hail from Italy and are celebrated for their steadfast dedication to craftsmanship and timeless style. This is no accident, as these brands, along with numerous Italian jewelers, build upon a solid foundation of traditional Italian artistry and the use of Italian gold.
An item of Italian gold jewelry — while initially appearing undeniably luxurious — signifies much more than its superficial elegance. These creations encapsulate centuries of heritage, countless skilled artisans, and are a tribute to the passionate craftsmen who have shaped the precious metal. The lasting allure of Italian gold stems from the devotion of Italian jewellers to preserving and honoring their craft, heritage, and the artisans who preceded them. Moreover, each brand’s affection and respect for Italian gold is showcased through ancient techniques, nods to classic styles, and their meticulous focus on artisanal craftsmanship.
The History of Italian Gold
Photo: Bvlgari
Italy is recognized as the most renowned ancient empire and one of the world’s leading gold producers. Famous for its exceptional gold quality, Italy’s history with the metal dates back to ancient Rome, particularly the Etruscans around 700 BC, who regarded gold as a mark of wealth and prestige, much like the ancient Egyptians. The jewelry sported by wealthy Romans was extravagant and ornate, frequently incorporating various cultural influences from Europe, Egypt, Asia, and other regions of the Mediterranean, notably styles from Greek mythology.
This fusion of inspirations led jewelers of that era to experiment with diverse techniques and decorative elements to seamlessly blend a myriad of styles. Additionally, possessing Italian gold was often emblematic of power, wealth, and sometimes military conquests. According to Jack Weir & Sons, “in 361, Roman dictator Titus Malius challenged a Gaul to a duel and, upon winning, seized his torc.” As a result, torcs were awarded to valiant soldiers, developing into a symbol of elite status and triumph. Ancient Romans adorned themselves with gold through various forms including amulets, bracelets, necklaces, and earrings, which served as protection against the evil eye or harmful intentions. It is also noteworthy that many designs featured imprints of animals and coiling serpents, symbolizing immortality and fertility — motifs still utilized in modern jewelry design.
Photo: Bvlgari
Following the fall of the Roman Empire, jewelry and other gold ornaments were predominantly produced in cathedral treasuries and imperial courts. Consequently, most lavish gold jewelry was designed for religious ceremonies and figures, while other metal crafts focused on household items. During the Renaissance, demand for Italian gold surged with the rise of a new Italian middle class. Furthermore, affluent Roman families began financing trained goldsmiths to create massive, opulent gold pieces richly adorned with gemstones and religious symbolism, believing they were fulfilling divine purposes by crafting beauty. As wealth gradually spread from the wealthy to the middle class, Italian gold became highly sought after, rapidly gaining desirability due to its association with high social status.
During this time of increased demand, goldsmiths honed their skills, with their artistry deemed comparable to that of renowned Italian Renaissance painters, sculptors, and architects, as cited by Mountz Jewellers. Notably, this Renaissance period witnessed a significant resurgence in jewelry’s popularity, prompting various European nations to host contests to showcase their adornments, generating a momentous surge in demand for gem-encrusted gold items.
What is So Unique About Italian Gold?
Italian gold jewelry has consistently appealed throughout history, particularly notable are the gold chains. Italian jewelers were pioneers in mastering the craft of creating both durable and intricately designed gold chains. As reported by Lillicoco Antique Jewellery, the motif of chains has ancient origins, traced back to archaeological sites in ancient Ur and Uppsala. This subsequently evolved into wearable art as jewelry making became more innovative and modernized. It has been suggested that Italian goldsmiths utilized chain designs to enhance Catholic rosaries, encouraging increased usage. Regardless of purpose, Italian gold chains have withstood the test of time in the jewelry industry due to their exceptional durability, quality, and rich hue.
Owing to the rich tradition of gold craftsmanship, Italian jewellers are esteemed for their unparalleled creativity and artistry, frequently utilizing Italian gold as a foundation for innovative mechanisms and inventive designs. Typically 18K or 22K, Italian gold is prized for its purity, which provides a rich and distinctive color. Stringently regulated by Italian laws, this precious metal consistently delivers high-quality products that surpass the purity and value of international gold markets.
Consequently, Italian gold remains in high demand across Europe, the U.S., and Asia. With significant export numbers, it holds a vital position within the luxury sector. Despite fluctuating trends, Italian gold jewelry maintains its status as an integral element of both high fashion and everyday adornments due to its robustness, inherent beauty, and the artistic innovation of Italian jewelers. LUXUO has compiled a list of illustrious Italian jewelers who continue to advance while preserving traditional Italian gold craftsmanship.
Bvlgari
Bvlgari stands as one of the globe’s most esteemed jewelry brands, particularly recognized for its exceptional innovation and luxury. Established in Rome in 1884 by Greek silversmith Sotirio Bulgari, the brand initially garnered acclaim for its silver designs, reflective of its founder’s background. However, in the 1920s, Bulgari began to replicate the lavish classic French styles of Boucheron and Van Cleef & Arpels, and by the 1940s, the brand embraced its Roman roots through a heavier incorporation of Italian yellow gold. Known for merging tradition with innovation, Bvlgari pioneered the Tobogas design technique, characterized by interlocking gold strips forming a flexible tubular structure, which ultimately led to the iconic Serpenti collection.
Buccellati
Buccellati was established in the 1920s by Mario Buccellati, revered as ‘The Prince of Goldsmiths.’ The brand is distinguished for its elaborate designs, textural gold jewelry, and silverware, drawing inspiration from the Italian Renaissance and Venetian lacework. Buccellati’s hallmark is its intricate engraving and texturing methods, endowing its jewelry with a unique antiquated appeal. Despite its long-standing legacy, the brand has preserved its distinctive stylistic identity and traditional ancient goldsmithing practices. Italian gold is highly revered by the brand, described as “impalpable Italian fabric,” honoring its heritage and the master goldsmiths who preceded them.
Pomellato
Founded in 1967, Pomellato is recognized for bringing a contemporary perspective to luxury jewelry while upholding traditional techniques. Their exquisite pieces spotlight bold, vibrant gemstones and unique cuts, emphasizing elegance. Pomellato’s goldsmiths employ a blend of pink and yellow gold to form a distinctive alloy, later adorned with rare semi-precious gemstones utilizing traditional goldsmith methods. The brand is committed to honoring the craft and legacy of Italian goldsmithing, collaborating with the Milanese Goldsmith Institute to preserve the exceptional artistry and fundamental skills of artisan jewelers.
Damiani
Founded in 1924 by expert goldsmith Enrico Damiani, Damiani is a family-owned entity celebrated for its exquisite craftsmanship and unparalleled diamond settings. The brand’s collections frequently showcase intricate detailing, serving as a testament to Italian artistry and the master goldsmiths of Valenza.
Roberto Coin
Roberto Coin is well-known for its sophisticated designs featuring a signature hidden ruby in each piece, symbolizing good fortune and happiness. Drawing inspiration from ancient Roman jewelers, the brand echoes the styles of ancient Egypt, reflecting a strong admiration for Italian jewelry heritage. Established in Vicenza, a region renowned for masterful gold plating and personalized designs, Roberto Coin possesses a deep understanding of historical and classic styles that are frequently woven into their creations. Moreover, the brand significantly highlights the “quintessence of Italian craftsmanship,” with each imaginative piece crafted by skilled artisans.
Vhernier
Vhernier is celebrated for its modern, minimalist designs that emphasize geometric forms and striking, sculptural silhouettes. Founded in 1984 in Valenza as a goldsmith workshop, the brand operates with a passion for Italian gold and comprehensive knowledge of gemstones, creating unconventional and contemporary pieces. Through its minimalist designs, Vhernier aims to highlight the master craftsmanship of goldsmiths and the superior quality of its materials.
Marco Bicego
Marco Bicego’s jewelry presents a “distinctly Italian” interpretation of goldsmith tradition, crafting beautiful pieces with generations of expertise. The brand pays tribute to its rich heritage by emulating modern versions of classic Italian styles, showcasing multi-colored gemstones and employing the ancient “millerighe” burin technique. Marco Bicego is renowned for its capacity to replicate organic forms in nature through the manipulation of gold into fluid shapes and hand-engraved textures. The brand focuses on producing items that exude both luxury and subtlety, seamlessly merging tradition with contemporary design.
Pasquale Bruni
Pasquale Bruni launched his eponymous brand in 1968 at the young age of 20, in Valenza, known as the “City of Gold,” which boasts a rich tradition of jewelry making. The family-run enterprise is recognized for its romantic, nature-inspired designs that incorporate floral and celestial themes. Each piece is crafted with 750 parts of fine gold, equivalent to 18 carats. The warm hue of Pasquale Bruni’s gold is achieved by alloying yellow gold with silver and copper. Additionally, Pasquale Bruni’s skilled artisans delicately arrange gemstones in both subtle and striking compositions, creating a “sheer fabric of shimmering stones.”
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