Octo Finissimo Ultra (2022)
The phrase “ultra-thin” used to describe watches under 10mm thick was once seen as a significant achievement, highlighting technical excellence, comfort, and style all in one streamlined design. However, brands like Bvlgari have now set new standards, redefining thinness to include timepieces even thinner than a coin.
From 2014 to 2022, Bvlgari established eight thinness records in notable categories such as the world’s thinnest automatic tourbillon, chronograph, minute repeater, and perpetual calendar. This year, coinciding with its 140th anniversary, Bvlgari advances its record count to nine by unveiling the Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC, its thinnest model to date at a remarkable 1.75mm thick. This surpasses the previous record held by the Octo Finissimo Ultra of 2022, which was 1.80mm thick. The latest release comprises a fully operational watch, offered in two variations, each limited to 20 pieces, all of which carry COSC certification.
This impressive achievement results from a collaboration between Bvlgari’s watchmaking division and movement expert Concepto. Following the approach of several previous models with similarly challenging dimensions, the Ultra COSC uses its case back as the main plate for the movement. To achieve the additional 0.1mm reduction in thickness, the watch’s entire structure, including the case and its components, was redesigned, resulting in eight patents being filed.
The BLV180 calibre functions at 4Hz and boasts a 50-hour power reserve. It consists of 170 pieces, each carefully measured with 1/10-micron optical instruments to ensure near-perfect fittings. These parts are assembled onto a tungsten carbide mainplate/case back, chosen for its outstanding hardness, density, and durability. The middle case, bezel, lugs, and bracelet are crafted from sandblasted titanium, giving the watch a futuristic aesthetic.
Staying true to the Ultra series’ contemporary style, the new model showcases a geometric pattern on the ratchet, substituting the QR code featured on the earlier model. The back of the watch also incorporates a Data Matrix code, providing extensive details about the watch and its creation, including images and videos. Additionally, the specialized presentation case is technologically advanced, allowing users to set and wind the watch at the push of a button while displaying digitally.
Apart from the titanium model, Bvlgari has also introduced a platinum variant. The precious metal’s shine, paired with the blue PVD gleam on the regulator dials, imparts a distinctly more sophisticated allure to this version. Whichever choice is made, Bvlgari has again demonstrated its adventurous spirit and innovation in the realm of ultra-thin horology, presenting a watch that is both technically remarkable and visually stunning.
Both variations of the new Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC model, in titanium and platinum
Between The Lines
In a more creative celebration of the anniversary, the new Octo Finissimo Sketch models are here, with Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, Bvlgari Horlogerie’s Executive Director of Product Creation, showcasing his drawings on watch dials once again.
The initial Sketch editions launched in 2022 to celebrate the 10th anniversary of the Octo Finissimo collection, featuring playfully doodled hour markers, sub-dials, and the brand’s name on the dials of the Automatic and Chronograph GMT Automatic models. This year’s models revisit these originals but introduce more elaborate designs. The 40mm Automatic, available in either steel or rose gold, highlights a drawing of the reverse side of the BVL138 movement instead of a conventional watch face. In contrast, the 43mm steel Chronograph GMT offers a skeletonized view of the BVL318 movement.
The Automatic Sketch is limited to 70 pieces in rose gold and 280 in steel, while the Chronograph GMT Sketch is restricted to 140 pieces.
Time Flies
The reigning champion for the world’s thinnest tourbillon watch from 2014 returns with three options for enthusiasts of ultra-slim complexity. The Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Manuel is now available in rose gold or sandblasted titanium with black DLC. While the rose gold variant radiates classic elegance, the titanium version marries sophistication with sportiness through contrasting rose gold hands, a chapter ring, and a crown.
Additionally, the Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Automatic features a new 40mm platinum reference. Its skeletonized movement exhibits a micro-blasted blue finish, perfectly complementing the dark blue alligator strap. Both the hand-wound BVL 268SK and automatic BVL 288 movements maintain their status as the thinnest tourbillon movements at just 1.95mm thick.
Night Shift
All-black watches require a bold design to leave a mark — an aspect that the iconic Octo Roma delivers. The Octo Roma Automatic and Octo Roma Chrono have both undergone a monochromatic transformation, featuring black DLC steel cases, black dials, and black straps. To ensure visibility, however, the indices and hands are coated with luminescent materials.
The automatic model, measuring 41mm, is driven by the in-house BVL191 movement, offering a 42-hour power reserve. The chronograph is slightly larger at 42mm, utilizing the BVL399 calibre with the same power autonomy, making it the first Octo Roma Chrono clad entirely in black.
Though the collection draws inspiration from ancient architecture, the color scheme and Clous de Paris textures on the dial, combined with rubber straps, result in a distinctly modern aesthetic. A supplementary black alligator strap is also included and can be swapped easily.
All four Tadao Limited Edition Serpenti Tubogas watches. Clockwise from top: Natsu, Aki, Fuyu, and Haru
Seasonal Twists
Japanese architect Tadao Ando, known for his minimalist Octo Finissimo designs from 2020 and 2021, now applies his creative insights to the Serpenti Tubogas. Renowned for his profound appreciation of nature, Ando has crafted four Serpenti watches featuring stone marquetry dials, each representing one of the four seasons.
“Natsu” symbolizes the sunlit foliage of summer with green aventurine complemented by a bi-metallic yellow gold and steel case. “Aki”, the Japanese word for autumn, radiates with the golden tones of tiger’s eye, paired with a warm rose gold case. “Fuyu” brings together white mother-of-pearl and steel to reflect the crispness of winter, while “Haru” combines a pink shade of mother-of-pearl with a steel and rose gold blend, evoking the image of cherry blossoms in spring.
Haru and Aki are exclusively available in a 135mm twirl size, while Fuyu and Haru are offered in both 135mm and 145mm sizes. Each timepiece measures 35mm in width, is powered by quartz movements, and features bezels adorned with 38 diamonds. Moreover, the casebacks are engraved with Ando’s signature alongside the phrase “Tadao Limited Edition.” The watches will be released across the next year, coinciding with the seasons and culminating in March 2025. Additionally, 20 box sets will be available, encompassing all four creations.
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